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Thread: 300tdi tensioner pulley LH thread??

  1. #1
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    300tdi tensioner pulley LH thread?? + bearing removal??

    I'm trying to get the tensioner pulley off to replace the bearing, but but couldn't move the bolt holding it on - using what I thought was reasonable pressure.
    Before putting extra force on it, thought I should check if it has a left-hand thread or not.
    Any hints I should know about?
    Thanks

    ***see post below about extracting the bearing***
    Last edited by 98-110; 10th September 2007 at 07:09 PM.

  2. #2
    mcrover Guest
    Yes it is left hand thread, 15mm

  3. #3
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    Thanks mcrover.

    There is also a large idler (I think) pulley below the water pump with 3 bolts fastening it. The pulley does not spin freely, so I guess its bearings need replacing as well.
    How do you stop it turning so that you can undo the bolts?

  4. #4
    mcrover Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by 98-110 View Post
    Thanks mcrover.

    There is also a large idler (I think) pulley below the water pump with 3 bolts fastening it. The pulley does not spin freely, so I guess its bearings need replacing as well.
    How do you stop it turning so that you can undo the bolts?
    Thats your power steering pump, leave it alone unless it's leaking or noisey.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by mcrover View Post
    Thats your power steering pump, leave it alone unless it's leaking or noisey.
    Thanks mcrover: just as well I couldn't get it off!!!!!!!!!!

    ***extracting the bearing***
    The tensioner pulley came off nicely. But new problem. The circlip holding the bearing in has no holes for the pliers to fit in.
    Is this normal or has it been 'modified'?
    I tried levering it out with a screwdriver, but couldn't get it out.

    Do you need a special tool?

    Thanks
    Last edited by 98-110; 10th September 2007 at 07:10 PM.

  6. #6
    mcrover Guest
    There is a special tool, they are like square edged circlip pliers that sort of slide under the circlip to take it out.

    Another way to remove it is to break it with a cold chisel in the middle and replace it with a normal internal circlip.

    The third way and my prefered way if I dont have the right tool is to heat up the clip with an Oxy and it just peels out and you grab it with pliers.

    The bearing should be 6202 I think from memory if you dont already have them and once you get the clip out they are a piece of **** to do.

    Just get some circlips while down at the bearing joint.

    By the way, dont get the really cheap bearings as they dont last, the hardening in the race is too thin and normally have too much clearance and start to move straight away.

    Good bearings will cost more than $8 each and the most Ive seen them has been $12 each.

  7. #7
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    The bearing is a 6203

    File a small groove in the pulley then you can lever the circlip out easily.....

  8. #8
    mcrover Guest
    Thanks Gav, I was close, I have just been through sorting the bearings and seals box today so my bearing data base is a bit scrambled in my head at the moment.

  9. #9
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    Thanks fellas

    Picked up 3 SKF 6203's today from a local industrial supplier for<$18, which is below what I was expecting to pay.
    If SKF are known to give problems, someone please yell.

    Also replaced that troublesome circlip on the tensioner pulley with a standard one that I had to file down from 1.6mm to 1mm; bit fiddly, but it fitted nicely in the end and will be easy to remove if ever the need arises again.

  10. #10
    mcrover Guest
    SKF is ok.

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