Thread: D1 Swaybar disconnects

There was a thread a little while back, on using pins for hayman reece hitches for disconnects.

Need to weld or fix a washer on the pin and get some pipe or tube for a sleeve - simple cheap and as good as you will buy.

Here are some pics I saved from the thread.

Originally Posted by Bush65

There was a thread a little while back, on using pins for hayman reece hitches for disconnects.

Need to weld or fix a washer on the pin and get some pipe or tube for a sleeve - simple cheap and as good as you will buy.

Here are some pics I saved from the thread.

Yuck

Idea is great but implementation is poor.

The replacement pins you buy from places like Camac are mild steel not hardened like the original bolts. That is why you can drill through them with ease. (The bent nail in the pin scares me a bit)

I would be using a proper clevis pin like you get from your local tractor parts store or Bare & Co.

The other thing is the "R" clips - you risk them being caught on sticks etc and being pulled out and then the pin can go as well. This has happened on a number of pins on trailer hitches including the NSW RFS.

I would be using proper Lynch pins and possibly even putting a cable tie over the pin and ring as a safety measure.

Diana

This is new to me.

What is the reason for the quick release?

Look, I saw this and thought "great", but its a crock.

The bolt which goes through tensions the rubber mount. Without a lot of tension on the bush it flops around, and there is not a lot of room either side. The sway bar could move side to sidean dmaybe catch on some hardware, as it is only bolt /washer tension which holds the link upright.

What I ended up doing was grinding the "Nyloc" part off the nut, and drilling the bolt, to fit a clevis pin through.
It a "reasonably quick " connect.

This is a safety item, as if it popped on a corner it could change handling charateristics.
I think the only other way would be to machine the shaft, leaving the top mount and an inner shaft, then welding a sleeve to the bottom , tie rod end or vice versa. But they are cast, and I do not know how a weld would take.
Maybe you could get a tie rod end, and turn down the shaft, as it would be longer than the little stubby shaft, then weld a sleeve onto the bolt end.
But it would have to be pretty strong in shear
Regards Philip A

Originally Posted by barryj

This is new to me.

What is the reason for the quick release?

Allows for better articulation off the road.

More on-road body roll but essentially makes the vehicle the same as the majority of the Classic Range Rovers.

Diana

Hi,
aedofab in the states make and sell a kit.

Pete