Thread: tow points on 89 rr

Hey Blaze

For the rear I recently bought a tow hitch receiver thingo (i know technical name) basically if you have hayman reice tow bar or similar, buy the bar which has the shackle mounted on the end. I bought it from TJM in Brisbane, its solid steel. I believe the arb ones are square tube with the end welded on. I felt more comfortable with it being solid - similar price.

For the front I have 2 tow hooks, one either side of the car bolted through the chasis, this is on a 90 model rangie

Cheers Guy

I think there was a post about this a while ago?
Maybe I'm just old and confused?

I think the consensus is rated hooks back and front bolted through the chasis with HT bolts and over kill steel plate either side of the chasis so it doesn't A. bend the chasis B. pull through.

I put about a 3-4" square plate either side about 5mm thick HT bolts and nylocks.
If you are really smart maybe you could use anti-crush tubes too but I didn't know how to put them in and with the plate either side I didn't think it was needed.

As for the hitch recievers check you have a good strong well mounted tow bar before you use it. My towbar was fitted before I had the rangie and was fitted with mild steel bolts ! so check them. I changed the bolts, they were bent.

Use disco recovery points for the front - the ones that bolted to the chassis and poke thru the standard bumper bar. For the rear, definatly check and/or replace the bolts with HT, and use the biggest size that will fit. If you have a hayman reese type bar, and get stuck before buying the thing that pokes out the back - a sucssfull tactic is to insert the end of the snatch strap into the hole and poke the locking pin thru the loop to anchor it. The standard LR towbar (drop plate) is fine for recoveries - take the towball off and use a rated shackle to attach the strap

Originally Posted by langy

Use disco recovery points

Do you mean the factory fited "tow" points?

If you do you really shouldn't use those for snatch recovery unless you want a shackle in the back of the head.
If you fit hooks there's no need for shackles anyhow, one less bit of steel attached to a snatch strap is always a good thing.

No, I mean the LR accessory NTC7831. Not to be confused with the loops welded to the chassis as tie down points. I had a pair of the NTC7831 and they were fine- made with 5mm steel plate either side and a loop of 1/2 inch rod welded to them.

Got The hayman on the back, will look into the adaptors. In its passed life some braindead person had tried to tow off the tie down rings, no more explanation is needed there. Will look at something directly off the end of the chassis I think.
Thanks
cheers
blaze

Hangover, im interested in how you did your one. Can you post a pic of what you did or send me one please. I was thinking of the recovery hooks too, but wasnt sure if the chasis would handle the huge loads a hook would put on one side of the chasis. But your idea of a backing plate on the other side sounds good. More info please as I need to sort out my front recovery for my RR very soon.

Cheers,

I just looked at my recovery hooks, my memory ain't as good as it used to be I could have sworn I put plates on both sides of the chasis, oh well.

Anyhow here is one, the other identical.
The large plate sticking out from the front of the chasis is part of the roobar mount thick enough I think. The bolt goes through the roobar chasis and recovery hook with spring washer bolt side and nylock the other end.

The second bolt is pretty much the same but I remember I had to grind a mm or two off the tip of one of the corners of the bolt head because it came out so close to the body support bracket or what ever it's called.

That would just depend where you drilled your chasis as there was a roobar bolt hole there anyway I just used that.

Two things I just noticed, how rusty the front of my RR is underneath ! <- another job
If I ever remove the hook or roobar I'll put a plate on the other side too but I think thay should hold.