new shockies

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Originally Posted by Graeme

I put these Konis on my D2. I found the ride too harsh with an empty vehicle so had them all revalved to be softer on compression (to recommended specs, not mine) and they seemed good. I have since installed a winch, uprated front springs and rear airbags. On a recent desert trip the rears became very soft on compression only although they had also sufferred quite bad stone damage. I am waiting for an assessment of the reason for their loss of compression resistance but wonder if the original valving would have been OK in the desert. If they are unrepairable, I might still buy another rear set but stay with the original valving.

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The Konis have three settings as standard and are adjustable. Maybe you just need to reset them to a higher setting.
On oue recent desert trip, I had mine on the softest setting while another two had set theirs to medium and while all performed well, the medium setting was definately better when we got into the 'spinifex mogul' country of the northern Simpson.

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Originally Posted by Slunnie

So if you've already got 265/75's and a 2" lift...

Does this mean you'll also be using the angle grinder? :twisted:

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Yeh just chewing the fat on buying a work ute then the fun begins :twisted:
Im sick of putting unecesary kms on the D2 :mad:

Is there any problem using longer shocks (they say they can handle a 2" lift) with std springs?

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Originally Posted by Xtreme

The Konis have three settings as standard and are adjustable. Maybe you just need to reset them to a higher setting.
On oue recent desert trip, I had mine on the softest setting while another two had set theirs to medium and while all performed well, the medium setting was definately better when we got into the 'spinifex mogul' country of the northern Simpson.

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My Konis are infinitely adjustable between the min and max settings, but the Koni's adjustment only affects rebound. The rebound still works fine, with a significant difference between the min and max settings. On the trip I had them on the softest setting until it became obvious that they weren't doing much of a job, then next morning adjusted them to max. This pulled the rear-end down abruptly and excessively over the humps (got the food airborne inside their bins & fridge) but it still bottomed-out in the valleys. This occurred predominately on Knolls Track.

"This pulled the rear-end down abruptly"

sounds like "jacking down"

the rebound flow is much more restricted than the bump flow, so the suspension extends slower than it compresses and over a number of cycles you end up with the shock fully compressed.

If you had the fixed valving for bump softened (less restrictive flow) and no alterations made to the adjustable rebound, you might end up in that situation

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Originally Posted by procrastination inc

"This pulled the rear-end down abruptly"

sounds like "jacking down"

the rebound flow is much more restricted than the bump flow, so the suspension extends slower than it compresses and over a number of cycles you end up with the shock fully compressed.

If you had the fixed valving for bump softened (less restrictive flow) and no alterations made to the adjustable rebound, you might end up in that situation

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The bottoming-out occurred regardless of the rebound setting - the suspension was by no means jacking-down. Jacking down can only really occur on corrugations when the shocks are working at high speed and these were not corrugations. When I unbolted the bottom mount to do the adjustment, the shocks could very easily be compressed from underneath the vehicle although they had not been like that previously. I had great difficulty in extending the shocks once on the max setting, struggling for several minutes to extend each shock. With them removed from the vehicle and compared with std shocks that had done 30,000kms, the std shocks were much harder to compress. Also, the 2 Konis now have different compression resistance to each other. They have failed in some way, either due to the stone damage (unlikely as damaged piston seals should cause failure in both directions) or the new valves have failed or worked loose.

It'll be interesting to hear the results of the exploratory surgery.

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Originally Posted by Graeme

Also, the 2 Konis now have different compression resistance to each other. They have failed in some way, either due to the stone damage (unlikely as damaged piston seals should cause failure in both directions) or the new valves have failed or worked loose.

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Send them off to Proven Products in Albury.

Ron

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Originally Posted by p38arover

Send them off to Proven Products in Albury.

Ron

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They're there already waiting their turn to be assessed.

I'll stick with my Koni's thanks. Bilsteins are okay, find them too bloody stiff. I had a set of Bilsteins in my Rangie when I bought it and King springs, both of which got thrown for a set of LRA springs (220 rear/180 lb front) and Konis which I picked up 2nd hand with about 5,000 kms on them for $200 a set :D.

They don't have the lengths of your Pro-comps, etc.. but at least they'll last a few years. I've had Rancho RS9000's on my previous Rangie and they lasted 12 months, waste of money and only about $30 cheaper than the Koni's new anyway :( Dunno how they stay in Buisness, nearly everyone I know have had issues with them.

For Land Rovers, the foam-cell shocks aren't worth a pinch of **** IMO. I've said it once and I'll say it again, with shocks you get what you pay for. Save money now and garunteed you'll have to do the whole lot again and long term it'l cost you nearly twice as much :angel:

Trav