My clutch line rant

**Bulldog** · 6th October 2007, 05:56 PM

Hi all

,

Decided to replace the clutch master cylinder and flexible hose (the hydralic system is n/w). Couldn't undo the metal hose going to the master cylinder (tried and tried but it's rusted into one piece i think). Went off to pinch-a-part to get the metal hose system to replace it with (and got one). Undid the other end of the metal hose ok. Took nearly a friggin' hour to remove the nut off the top side of the flex hose

. CAN NOT undo the bottom nuts. CAN NOT undo the join between the slave cylinder metal hose and the flex hose

. THERE'S NO ROOM TO EVEN GET A BLOODY SPANNER IN, LET ALONE TURN IT. The chassis is in the way, the exhaust pipes are in the way, i can't see what i'm doing from above or below. When i try to undo the slave cylinder metal hose the whole bracket moves instead

.

I figured if i can get the slave cyl free i'll just put my new hose in next to the old one and leave it there, but no.

How the hell do you guys do this $h!t, or do you do as i do and just kick the car and throw spanners. It's taken the best part of this afternoon to undo 2 nuts

.

Please, some advice or councelling would be greatly appriciated, otherwise its angle grinder and hacksaw tomorrow, and it's not gonna be pretty. The wife is down the street getting me a bottle of Bundy, but i'm afraid that's only a temporary solution

.

**DaveS3** · 6th October 2007, 06:16 PM

My motivation was to get to the brake store before it closed for the day so I could get a new clutch line made just to put it all back together again so I could drive it the next day!

Its a ***** of a job. Even harder when there is the sway bar and other pipework in the way.

Do a body lift, that also helps a bit, as you can get a spanner in between the chassis and body.

I got my top flexi hose nut off through the engine bay.

Just wait to you have to put it all together again

Good luck.

**Blknight.aus** · 6th October 2007, 06:23 PM

short throw spanners are the secret along with a little dieso or brake fluid and some heat.

failing that slice away with the butchers tools remove the slave cyl then vice grip the remains out...

**rovercare** · 6th October 2007, 07:06 PM

Flare nut spanners

Ssshhhhh, its a secret

**Bulldog** · 6th October 2007, 07:10 PM

Originally Posted by rovercare

Ssshhhhh, its a secret

Don't worry, it's still a secret, cos i don't really know what you're talking about

.

**DaveS3** · 6th October 2007, 07:25 PM

Cool.

Never heard of them before - they look very handy.
(might go buy some so I stop rounding the edges of the nuts

)

**rovercare** · 6th October 2007, 07:36 PM

Originally Posted by DaveS3

Cool.

Never heard of them before - they look very handy.
(might go buy some so I stop rounding the edges of the nuts

)

But with hex, not double hex

**procrastination inc** · 6th October 2007, 07:49 PM

double hex is useful when the swing is pretty restricted, but single hex is less likely to round off the nut (important if they are really tight)

**rovercare** · 6th October 2007, 07:52 PM

Originally Posted by procrastination inc

double hex is useful when the swing is pretty restricted, but single hex is less likely to round off the nut (important if they are really tight)

Yep, if your having trouble, the double hex flare nut ain't goint to cut it

**Blknight.aus** · 6th October 2007, 08:36 PM

they are also available in long, standard and short throw versions And now you can get them in the disconnectable spanner set up which is essentially a normal spanner with the handle cut off and a sort of socket attachment made up cheap ones allow you 90 degrees between each of the handle lock in positions and the expensive ones 45 degrees.

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