steering box adjustment

Have a look at the OEM springs.
You will see that Disco 1 V8 has 133Lb per inch front.
The Kings fronts are 220 lb, that is they are 65% stiffer!
I have 160Lb fronts in my RRC (LRA green) and they are a very good riding spring with plenty of resistance to bottoming and give about 1.75 inches lift. If you have a heavy bullbar you may need one stiffer at say 180 Lb , but 220 LB?

The KKR 2 rears seem OK at 240lbs per inch which is about 10% stiffer than your stock ones.
Then it depends on what height you want.
LRA alternative would be /orange purple at 17 inch free length and 220 lbs. this is a long soft spring so would sag the same as the standard springs under load.
I think it would give about 2inches lift.I have Orange at 17 inches and 180lbs under mine but I have a load leveller. It gives 2 inches lift.
IMHO the fronts are far too heavy unless you have a steel bullbar and winch. The first rears are also far too heavy, but the second alternative looks good.
Regards Philip A

that's how I saw it too.

I wonder how the straight 220lb rears would sit with the lpg tank?

I might ask them if they do a softer longer spring for the front. What length are your 160 lb fronts?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by procrastination inc

Just rang kings

for a 40mm lift, they recommend a 220lb/in spring on the front and a 240 progressive to 340 :eek: on the rear

they have a straight 240 for the rear also

I asked about warranty

they provide a lifetime warranty to the original purchaser and will replace springs that sag more than 10mm (measured free length)

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I had the kings progressive rate in the rear of my rangie that had twin lpg and twin sill tanks, the ride was good and the articulation wasnt too bad either although a little on the harsh side- fixed with a set of koni's.

The LRA green are 15.6 inches, although the chart shows 16.1. The Standard Range Rover 1992 rears are also green band and 16.1inches 180 LBs.
This is a cheap way of getting front springs by the way.
I had my rears on the front, but fitted the LRA ones because I lost all castor with the extra 1/2 inch.

Re the back. I think the Kings 240lbs sound OK, But you should ask how much lift. I do not think that the cylinder and tank weigh that much 40Kg, so this is only about 1/4 inch of load.
With regard to the LRA, I think the 220x17 inch should be OK, and the tanks would only drop it 1/2 inch. My Range Rover with Long range tank has a 2inch lift with 180lbsx17 inch, so it may be say 21/4-2/12 inch lift.
Anyway, it would be a bit higher than the front which is what you want.
Regard sPhilip A
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picked up a random bunch of Land rover springs for pocket money on ebay.

I'll measure them and have a play and post results

Been fitting springs and shocks this morning.

Rain delays play :)

The scores so far:

rear right spring and shock removed and replaced.

Originally a dual rate spring with 2 orange stripes

free length 390 mm (15.35") 9 turns of 15.7mm material

the shock was a black land rover one, closed length 360mm, open 565mm

new spring: dual rate red/yellow. 400mm free length. 9.5 turns of 16.5 mm material

new shock: Koni heavy track. closed, 390mm open 590mm

will this be saved by the factory bump stop?

the car now sits 25 mm higher at this wheel.

when the rain stops, I'll get and do the other rear.

In the front are blue springs. The spare blues I have measure 400 free, with 7 turns of 13.5 diameter material

will swap with green springs, 410 free, 7.5 turns of 14.5 mm material.

I'll post results when I'm done.

phillip, I am very glad that I followed your advice about the heavy king springs.

The Factory diesel disco springs in the front are pretty much as hard as I'd like to go.

The red/yellow rears sit a little low. They a firmer in both rates than the factory ones but they feel a bit softer in the initial stages than the factory ones. The first rate on the factory ones was consumed unladen. The new ones still have the softer rate to use. the back now sits higher , with an initially softer rate than before

so the result is a little odd.

front is stiffer and firmer,rear is stiffer in sharper bumps but softer on normal highway undulations.

Handling on the highway is more precise, on loose gravel I think it is a little more skittish.

Happy with the result overall, but I think the biggest improvement (actually having dampening in the rear) could have been achieved at a lower initial outlay then a set of Koni shocks.

I am happy that you have worked out a good setup.

The Koni shocks seem quite a bit longer than the OEM shocks.
I do not know whether they will bottom, but it would only be in extreme circumstances like landing from a "Yump" . Just remember that the rubber bump stops will compress almost their entire thickness under extreme circumstances.
I was going to measure the minimum on mine but I chickened out as the car moves sideways A LOT when you jack up the axle without a spring.
There is someone on this forum AFAIK who has done the measurements. Maybe he will answer.
If I were you I would add say 15mm of packing under the bump stop, but that's me being paranoid I guess.

Also just check how tight your spring sits when the shock is fully extended. I have seen quite a few fall out. Embarrassing. You can add Jubilee clips around the spring and top mount to be sure.
Regards Philip A

tried crossing the suspension up on my car ramps. Useless, it'll go heaps further than that.

Swapped the 10mm rear spring spacers for 30s today, about 85 mm bump stop clearances all around.

considering a body lift to get the LPG tanks up abit (hooked up on them on friday)

Any advice on this mod?

FWIW, 220lb/in front springs don't limit the articulation. OE HD Defender front springs pre '03 or so are 225lb/in (later ones are variable rate) and I'm running LRA Purple which are 220lb/in x 17" free length and my bump stop pads on the diff are usually shiny most of the time. ;)