Thread: steering box adjustment

its a spring loaded lever with the pully on the end of it...

grab the belt somewhere and yank it up hard and you'llsee it move the tensioner.

you can wedge it inwards on some setups but I find that putting the right socket on it and then pivoting the whole thing with the socket wrench is easiest.

"but I find that putting the right socket on it and then pivoting the whole thing with the socket wrench is easiest."

ok, so just use the bolt on the idler pulley to load up the spring enough to pop the belt off?

Cheers BLK, made it easy

Now, I adjusted the box up by wiggling the input shaft by hand and tightening until there was just a bit of movement.

Took it for a spin. The steering felt too tight, I could put it into a slight turn and it would hold it (wouldn't self straighten)

So I backed it off half a turn (no need to pull the compressor out now). Better but still too stiff.

Another half a turn, almost there.

1/4 turn. Happy.

Still a lot of wander, but not so much slop in the steering.

Next stop, replace all bushes.

If that doesn't improve things dramatically, I need to look at swivel joints and wheel bearings, right?

Originally Posted by procrastination inc

Cheers BLK, made it easy

Now, I adjusted the box up by wiggling the input shaft by hand and tightening until there was just a bit of movement.

Took it for a spin. The steering felt too tight, I could put it into a slight turn and it would hold it (wouldn't self straighten)

So I backed it off half a turn (no need to pull the compressor out now). Better but still too stiff.

Another half a turn, almost there.

1/4 turn. Happy.

Still a lot of wander, but not so much slop in the steering.

Next stop, replace all bushes.

If that doesn't improve things dramatically, I need to look at swivel joints and wheel bearings, right?

No, you need to get someone to load the steering up, turning it side to side and actually look to find whats causing the problem,

correct rovercare your fist step should have been to have someone wiggle the steering wheel about 90 degrees either side of center while you eyeball all the links from the steering wheel down to the wheels.

to check the dampner lift both front wheels off of the deck then turn the wheel if theres no resistance then the dampners shot

while the wheels are up grab them at 12+6 and wiggle aggressively if you get any movement have your assistant stomp on the brakes hard if the movement goes away its wheel bearings if it doesnt its swivel pin play

Thats only a field check but it will point you in the right direction.

"No, you need to get someone to load the steering up, turning it side to side and actually look to find whats causing the problem,"

Did that.

Tie rod ends felt Ok'ish, a tiny bit of slop, but pretty good . You could see the input shaft to the steering box rotate but a huge delay until the output shaft moved.

Might look for new tie rod ends to eliminate that

Another place to look is the UJs on the lower steering column. Particularly the lower one can seize, causing hard spots.
The steering box adjustment should be done little bits at a time , maybe 1/8 turns, not full turns.
Regard sPhilip A

Thanks Phillip,

UJ appears fine

Swivel joints feel tight wheel bearings gave a little more clearance than I'd guess. Are they just tapered rollers adjusted with a castleated nut?