Im a little confused, I realise fuel pressure is important, but fuel temp?
Its non gaseous, so it doesnt effect density, and fuel is recirc'ed anyhow, so it should always be close to ambient, maybe a little cooler due to evaporation.
No, with a 14 CUX it resets once the capacitors are powered down. ie next time you start it.
Regards Philip A
Im a little confused, I realise fuel pressure is important, but fuel temp?
Its non gaseous, so it doesnt effect density, and fuel is recirc'ed anyhow, so it should always be close to ambient, maybe a little cooler due to evaporation.
.The “hot fuel” controversy is getting hotter. The Owner-Operator Independent Drivers Association has launched a website, www.turndownhotfuel.com, intended to educate truckers and motorists about the issue, but really it’s pretty simple. The standard volume for a gallon of fuel is 231 cubic inches at 60 degrees in the continental United States. Retail pumps don’t adjust volume output according to the fuel’s temperature, which varies widely by region. Thus, truckers and motorists filling up with 70-degree fuel, which is slightly expanded, get less energy than is supposed to be in a standard gallon, and those filling up on 40-degree fuel get a great deal more energy
Fuel in the rail of a stopped engine suffers quite a bit of "heat soak", so becomes less dense and therefore the AF ratio will be leaner on restart, sometimes enough to prevent hot start.
Funny I was at Stockton Clean up at the weekend with our club pres who has a Motec 4.6 ( with no fuel temp sensor). After coming off the beach and having lunch then restarting to go back to the beach, my 14CUX started first turn, and his took over 2minutes to start and run cleanly.
So it seems to work.
Regards Philip A
after I read some articles on the 14CUX, I decided that I should do something about the missing FTS. The 14CUX was designed to incorporate a FTS, so I chucked it on. Maybe I have waisted 100bucks? Maybe it will upset the consumption even more. I don't know?
I will at some stage get a fault code reader onto the bus and see if it picks up the sensor.
Here's to hoping it's gonna do the right thing hey?!
FYI: I got the FTS from roverparts in Ballarat. Ordered online and blow me down it was in the next morning. Mega fast post...Great stuff.
I connected the FTS the day I got the thing and still no good. Didn't change a thing.
Anyway, I tested the CTS and FTS at the ECU along with injectors with a Digitial Multimeter. One bank of injectors came up at 3.6ohms and the other side 4.2 ohms. The manual states 4-4.5 ohms and if higher things a re bad, but nothing about a lower resistance? Confused.
On testing the CTS and FTS I can't get a reading at all... The car still just cranks away until it decides to start.
In my frustration, I thumped the ECU and and the car decided to turn first turn of the key and continued to start like a charm at one hourly intervals. I was wrapped until I took it for a drive then tried to restart but it went back to its old self. This leads me to think that I might have some cold solder problems in the ECU?
G'day MIKE90RR, I'm working on a 1994 3.9 Pre-update v8i Discovery, looks like a 1993.
If I borrow another ECU, will my car cause any damage to it?
What you wrote went over my head. Where do I find the posts on the firewall?
(Traralgon lies about 1.5 hours east of Melbourne on the Princes Hwy).
So you reckon I got solder problems perhaps or just the ECU has gone bye bye?
Traralgon .... Thanks for that .. It sounded like a Kiwi name
I'm running a 90RRC and they have voltage feed problems .... so the explanation of terminal post is not for your model
So long as it's a 14CUX ECU .... try as many as you like ... from any model RRC1990 to Disco 94?? as PhllipA said ..
No, with a 14 CUX it resets once the capacitors are powered down. ie next time you start it.
Regards Philip A
They reset themselves when they "powerdown" so they don't "remember squat"
Theres a thread where Phillip really starts to explain how 14 CUX works
But do chase & test the volt feeds & especially the earth lines // to make sure they are in good condition and can take the FULL AMPS required
Mike![]()
Righto, I put the meter across both the Fuel Temp Sensor and Coolant sensor.
Engine cold and the FTS read: 3480ohms from the ECU and 3880ohms straight from the sensor in the rail.
The Coolant Sensor read: 3760ohms from the ECU and 3920 from the sensor in the engine bay.
Tune resistor read: 179ohms (close enough for Aussie specs).
Stepper Motor 49.4ohms between pins 1 and 26, and 50.5ohms at pins 28 and 29.
Have 10.5volts at the ECU at pin 15 and ground.
Airflow sensor at pins 35 and ground read 0.36volts (should be between 0.3 and 0.6 volts).
Also examined the ECU circuit itself and no cold solder joints, there was however, a small thin length of bark or something stuck to the rear of the circuit board...
I tried to replicate the situation I had yesterday where it was starting first turn of the key like a champ. I think I may have found that spraying the crankcase breather flame trap with carbon cleaner similar, the car fires right up. What the?
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