Towing an auto

**duff** · 11th October 2007, 09:53 PM

and from the D2 manual

.
TOWING
Towing
The vehicle has permanent four wheel drive. The
following towing instructions must be adhered
to:
Towing on 4 wheels with driver
Turn ignition key to position '1' to release steering
lock.
Select neutral in main gearbox and transfer gearbox.
Secure tow rope, chain or cable to towing eye.
Release the handbrake.
The brake servo and power assisted steering
system will not be functional without the engine
running. Greater pedal pressure will be required
to apply the brakes, the steering system will
require greater effort to turn the front road
wheels. The vehicle tow connection should be
used only in normal road conditions, 'snatch'
recovery should be avoided.

Suspended tow
To prevent vehicle damage, front or rear
propeller shaft MUST BE removed, dependent
upon which axle is being trailed.
Mark propeller shaft drive flanges at transfer box and
axles with identification lines to enable the propeller
shaft to be refitted in its original position.
Remove the propeller shaft fixings, remove the shaft
from the vehicle.
If the front axle is to be trailed turn ignition key to
position '1' to release steering lock.
The steering wheel and/or linkage must be
secured in a straight ahead position. DO NOT use
the steering lock mechanism for this purpose.

Towing eyes
The towing eyes at the front and rear of the vehicle
are designed for vehicle recovery purposes only and
must NOT be used to tow a trailer or caravan.
Front:A single towing eye, set behind a removable
panel in the front spoiler. DO NOT use the front
lashing rings for towing.

**rovercare** · 11th October 2007, 11:02 PM

Originally Posted by loanrangie

Shift it into neutral then tow as normal.

Aslong as you don't like the sprags in your auto

**Barra1** · 12th October 2007, 05:35 AM

Thanks fellas. I hope I won't have to tow my mate in his Navara but that would be better than the living nightmare should he have to tow my Defender.

**Bigbjorn** · 12th October 2007, 07:01 AM

Depends if your auto has a front oil pump only, or (now rarely) has a rear pump that is still driven by the tailshaft with the trans in neutral. Some early ones had both. If only a front pump then the tailshaft must be removed or the driven wheels lifted off the ground. Note that I have been told by tow truck operators that some modern cars should not be lifted and towed by a hook truck, only on a tilt tray.

**loanrangie** · 12th October 2007, 08:50 AM

I was assuming the tc was in neutral , auto or manual.

**PhilipA** · 12th October 2007, 09:11 AM

What I am curious about in these instructions is the
" mark position of propellor shaft drive flanges."
This is bull**** and shows no understanding by the writer of the issue.
A driveshaft is balanced and phased and the UJs at each end have to be in the same position relative to each other, but it does not care what position the flanges are vs the diff flange and transfer flange.

Can you imagine someone in a plant somehow dynamically balancing a driveshaft while on a car, and shifting it until its in the correct/best position?
As long as the driveshaft remains in one assembly it does not matter .
Regards Philip A

**p38arover** · 12th October 2007, 10:03 AM

Originally Posted by PhilipA

What I am curious about in these instructions is the
" mark position of propellor shaft drive flanges."
This is bull**** and shows no understanding by the writer of the issue.
A driveshaft is balanced and phased and the UJs at each end have to be in the same position relative to each other, but it does not care what position the flanges are vs the diff flange and transfer flange.

It is a commonly written statement.

Ron

**George130** · 12th October 2007, 11:31 AM

For short distances I have put the transfer in neutral and the Auto in Neutral. We decided it would be ok for a short distance to leave the drive shafts in.

**Blknight.aus** · 12th October 2007, 11:39 AM

Originally Posted by PhilipA

What I am curious about in these instructions is the
" mark position of propellor shaft drive flanges."
This is bull**** and shows no understanding by the writer of the issue.

Actually in some cars the flanges are splined to suit the box and they may be keyed.

In most landrovers they should be installed in one position or 180 degrees out, particualarly on the handbrake side of business as theres a clearance on the flange that lets you inspect the retaining screws for the drum.

**Blknight.aus** · 12th October 2007, 11:52 AM

Originally Posted by George130

For short distances I have put the transfer in neutral and the Auto in Neutral. We decided it would be ok for a short distance to leave the drive shafts in.

with the Tcase in nuetral youve disconected the drive to the auto so no problems with towing it as far as you like (but make sure the CDL is out first)

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