Hey DD - If you want we can do a labour exchange - I can fit your maxi-drive and youi can lay some bricks for me???
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Just had the rear axles and flanges done. Rover diff.
$650 for the 4 bits.
Cheers
Just had an email from Mal, $1530 plus gst for the complete kit or $780 plus gst for the axles. Now I dont have a stuffed axle, need justification to buy the kit.
;)
Comes with externally mounted vaccum actuator and cabin switch. Maybe someone who has installed one could run through the procedure. I believe for a semi competent person not to hard and Mal will provide all information. Will ring him when i am back off site.
MM, just thought of justification, 40th birthday next month and wife is looking for a pressie.:cool::cool:
Craig, even though drive still appears OK to front end, I'd advise checking the front diff oil also. We had two front diffs fail on our recent desert trip - with the similar 'big bang' that you indicated.
The problem with the front diffs fitted to later model Landies is that the bolts securing the crown wheel are not 'wired' like the old Series Landies, instead, they rely on Loctite. When this fails, the bolts become slightly loose and the resultant movement between the crown wheel and hemsphere results in one or more of the bolt heads sheering off. This loose/floating metal then finds its way between the crown wheel and pinion resulting in chipped teeth and real damage. At this stage, drive to front end may still appear to be OK as most of the teeth are still intact - especially when simply tested by jacking front and turning wheels.
So first step would be to drain and check front diff oil for 'foreign' metal &/or remove diff centre, check for damage and if OK, take the opportunity to drill bolt heads and wire up as in Series Landies. Then you'll have no further concerns about your front crown wheel coming loose.