Ah good ol tarepoxy good sticky shyte![]()
Hey All, just wondering if anyone has painted their chassis with Bitumen Paint.
We used to use it on the farm to stop the bottoms of water tanks rusting out, also I work in the Road Maintenance industry & any bare metal with bitumen on it seems to hold up to the elements very well.
It's been used as a water tight sealer on tin & fibro roofs for years.
I have been cleaning the chassis up on the Series 2 & have been sealing with Bitumen Paint as I go, might even act as a good soundproofer as well.
Messy messy stuff but.![]()
Ah good ol tarepoxy good sticky shyte![]()
The problem with bitumen paints is the tendency to sometimes rust behind the paint, but I don't think it will hurt. Remember though that in most cases the chassis will rust out from the inside - and there are probably other types of paint easier to get in there.
I doubt it will make things quieter - one of the characteristics of the Series construction is the total lack of soundproofing or sound insulation, although if you painted all the underneath surfaces of the body with it as well, that might have an effect, although it would complicate a lot of maintenance and repair work.
John
John
JDNSW
1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol
The paint dries out and cracks and can rust in these areas but in others where it has bonded well it does work well.
REMLR 243
2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
1977 FC 101
1976 Jaguar XJ12C
1973 Haflinger AP700
1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
1957 Series 1 88"
1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon
I did this with my 2A.
A good wire brushing, followed by a coat of Cold Galv. followed by a coat of Brushable Bitumastic.
8 years on & it still looks fine as it appears to remain semi-pliable.
The only disadvantage that I can see is if petrol gets on it, but then it still seems to form a 'greasy' coating in that area.
In reality though, it's probably the cold galv. doing the job.
I advocate giving all new steel brake lines a coat along their length as well.
I used to live in cold wet Northern UK with winter rock salt spread on the road; Rust Central. Bitumen products were a very common treatment 30-40 years ago; 'Underseal'; and my advice is don't do it. The rust seems to get a grip even faster behind the coating and you can't see it. I would much rather use a conventional modern paint like the Cold Galv mentioned already, or epoxy. Waxed oils are often used in the UK now instead. Bulk pack versions of stuff similar to CRC Soft Seal or Valvoline Tectyl. Our friends with military vehicles would be familiar with these protective coatings as much military equipment is protected with this waxy brown stuff.
Fortunately, salt isn't used here. The application of Brushable Bitumastic I used was more a chassis paint thickness, not trowelled on like the MoD used.
It served as a chassis coat as well.
You pays yer money & makes yer choice.
I am using Bituthene & Cold Gal.
Bituthene has a high content of rubber so it keeps it's elasticity to a point.
I am going to get inside the chassis with fish oil later.
anyone know where you can get Valvoline Tectyl?
LRH
Disco 4 SDV6 Auto
Disco 4 SDV8 Dual Cab Project
Disco 2 M57 Extra Cab Project
Foton Tunland Cummins ISF
Disco 1 3 door 4.6 V8 Auto
RRC V8 Auto "Classic" Softdash
RRC 300 TDI Auto
Disco 1 TD5 Auto Buggy
Disco 1 300 Tdi Auto Ute
SAME Explorer 70HP 4x4 Tractor plus Nell Loader
Subaru GDA WRX
Triumph Bonneville SE
Yamaha TTR250
[quote=LRHybrid100;629552]anyone know where you can get Valvoline Tectyl?
LRH[/quote
Ive got similar stuff in a 20L drum its K&H brand tectyl looks the same and sticks like shyte to a blanket the same just different name i also have another brand tectyl in a red 4L can im not sure on its brand but its much the same as the K&H stuff and the valvoline stuff![]()
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