Thread: Heeeeeelp - Td5 Headbolt Broken - Need A Mobile Tig Welder

I' should be in place to attack that bolt by 0830 if all goes in accordance to the plan....

to prevent thread hijacks Multiple Pms have been sent.

had a bolt snap the head clean off in a block once... had about 15mm of threaded section stickin out (aloominuuum block)

took three days of penetrine, repeated heating the bolt with a paint stripper while keeping the block cold (ice packs), alternated with heating the block and cooling the bolt quickly with ice. I filed a pair of flats on the opposite sides of the remnants and gave it all a final heat and cool the bolt only then stuck a good quality, tightly fitting frozen 18 inch shifter on it and I swear I could have turned it out by hand... big relief all round and a beer or two for my mate the metalurgist for his suggestions

Dude!

(see I even registered on here to show my love, lol )

We called you bush mechanic in NL in jest. Don't blemish the good name of it at home in Oz by buggering around please!


Couple of thoughts-

are you SURE it is not already up to or past the required torque setting? That way you could leave it for another day at least. It appears practically in as far as needed.



Otherwise means that either you were using crap tool (not typical of you), were gungho to point of silliness (not typical of you - well almost ), or the bolt head was defective. Would be good to be sure and share that knowlegde with the forum.

Bolt welding seems to be the best solution. I'd be inclined to remove as much as possible out of the head - rockers etc in view of your current luck.

I'd have given 50c to have seen and heard you as this happened - stop being shy and stick the skype web cam up in the garage please!

Progress report eagerly awaited. Good to see the Landycrew are as friendly as teamclog

And have you bought the IRWIN and tried this yet?

It looks the business and I'd imagine it's designed to take loads like this.

by the looks of what is left do not think there is enough left of the head for an irwin to get a grip plus they are for normal bolt heads, if it near the factory torque setting even using an easy out is risky untill you remove the shoulder off the bolt head which would remove the clamping force and make removing the bolt easier.

This is how I would do it if I had no access to a welder, first grind the head flat, then carefully drill a small centre hole go up a couple of drill sizes to suit an easy out drill this hole below the shoulder of the bolt,next drill a hole that is bigger than the bolt shank by a couple of mm and drill carefully till the bolt head comes off.

This should now make it easy to remove the bolt make sure you have a new bolt to go straight in,ths bolt is a pain to get to you may have to undo the rear gear box mounts and jack up the trans to allow you to drill the holes with a normal drill

this is turning into a good story
don;t forget to take photos of daves work at each stage,
has the makings of a good how too!!!!!

Dave does this go towards a credit in one of the competency areas.?




john

Can you replace one head bolt if the rest are already torqued up? How important is the sequence and stages with these heads?

Bruce.

Guys Thanks for your hints & tips.

I will be taking pictures of all of the gory details for you to lust over!

I hope that no one else has to experience these joy's any time soon!!!

Dave the generous soul, is coming to help me (well actually I think I will be helping him ) Saturday morning - early.

He has given me some homework to finish beforehand though, so I'd better get cracking!

Will keep you a brest of the 'progress'.