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Thread: Sound Proofing

  1. #21
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    the only way to seal up a defender is from the outside........with sikaflex......











    and a six inch spatula.......

    but then you will have to forget about ever opening and shutting anything such as doors etc ever again........

  2. #22
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    Nope, that doesn't stay put for long.

    One good swim and there she goes. Sikaflex gone, leaks back.

    Although enough of it on the inside of panels might stop some of the drumming.

  3. #23
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    sikaflex never lets go........the paint or metal or whatever its stuck to will have to come off with it.......

  4. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by DEFENDERZOOK View Post
    sikaflex never lets go........the paint or metal or whatever its stuck to will have to come off with it.......

    You've obviously never been down into the Southern Ocean in a timber sailing vessel.

    Trust me sikaflex can let go. Had to set up a tarp over my bunk.
    I was the only one with a dry bunk for 3 weeks.

  5. #25
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    i refuse to take lurch for a three week dunk......

  6. #26
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    Thanks for the responses guys, they have been very usefull I will do a bit of looking around at clark rubber and the like, to see what i can find. I think i should put some gaters on the Hi/Low range selector and handbrake lever, at the moment there arn't any (good in winter if u crack the windows open a bit, lots of warm air from the engine and gearbox ) alot of sound is probably from the holes I'll think i'll line the firewall with that foil covered 25mm engine room insulation from the boating suppy store. I was also going to put some 5mm thick heavy rubber lining on the underside of the front and rear wheel wells, mainly to to stop mud and sand from building up on everything, I think this would help stop alot of road noise.

  7. #27
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    And the footwells and seatbox. With Sound-sorba.

    Door linings help as well.

    And the idea of rubber valances in the guards is interesting.
    I might have a go at that myself, I happen to have come across some industrial nylon sheet, like a kitchen cutting board, but black and solid, might have a play, considering the old girl is undressed at the moment.

  8. #28
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    closed cell foam under the lead will help as it will decouple the surfaces which will further aid in sound absorbance by breaking up the transmission of the sound waves through the layers.

    A cheap and fast experiment would be to grab some used ceiling tiles from the office and roughly cut to shape on the floor throughout the vehicle to see what the difference could be like.

    That said, ceiling tiles or your typical foam sound insulation soaks up water and water held against the firewall will kill it quicksmart... I know that after removing some insulation installed by a previous owner and finding fist sized holes through my firewall

    Edit:
    how about a thick coating of rhinoliner/hippoliner first, then the closed cell foam, then lead sheet, then rubber matting? any thoughts on this?
    Last edited by EchiDna; 9th November 2007 at 07:38 PM. Reason: added a question

  9. #29
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    Sound Proofing

    I fitted 10mm self-adhesive closed - cell foam with a aluminium outer skin to the underside of my whole floor and also to the inside of my roof. I got the stuff from an airconditioning manufacturer. Had a good result. Hope this helps.

    Don

  10. #30
    Davo is offline ChatterBox Silver Subscriber
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    I've used a few metres of this stuff, called Form Shield http://www.lincolnsentry.com.au/Product.aspx?id=1065 from Clark Rubber. I love Clark Rubber! What a great shop! I actually make it a priority to visit one when we make the rare trip down to Perth.

    It's foil-backed, closed-cell grey foam. It comes in two thicknesses. I've got it on the cab side of the bulkhead, about two layers on the tranny tunnel, on the floors, all around the seatbox, and because so much heat and noise comes from the transmission, I even managed to put it on the underside of the seatbox, over, in front of, and on the LH and RH sides of the gearbox. Those bits are against the seatbox surfaces, so that there is still airflow for the gearbox.

    It's worked well, to the point where the wife and I can actually have a nice chat with the windows closed. (Unfortunately, the heat up here means we always have to have the windows open! Aircon is on the list.) The floor and seatbase are much cooler, too, so we no longer have the dreaded Toasted-Feet Syndrome.

    The next thing is to try making the aforementioned "lead sandwich", which I think will remove the last of the annoying whiny noises.






    Though I could always leave the wife at home!

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