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Thread: Any metalurgists out there ????

  1. #11
    JDNSW's Avatar
    JDNSW is offline RoverLord Silver Subscriber
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    Quote Originally Posted by lokka View Post
    Yep i understand were ya coming from john ive worked with stainless for quite some time now and i understand how it becomes brittle and can fracture just didnt think that it would in this case tho ah well il hunt down some chrome molly tube or solid bar insted andithink the solid would be the stronger option tho probably dearer than tube
    Yes solid will be stronger, but you would probably be surprised how little extra strength it adds. The critical strength dimension is bending, and this is determined by the average diameter and wall thickness - making it solid effectively increases the wall thickness to half the diameter, but it also decreases the average diameter. Stronger, but not very much if you start with fairly thick walls.

    Increased diameter is more effective than increased wall thickness on a weight for weight basis, but eventually the wall thickness gets so thin that it is too easily damaged, or, as in this case, the track rod rubs against the nose of the diff.

    The other consideration, of course, is if you make the track rod so strong it doesn't bend - what does? Something more expensive I suspect!

    John
    John

    JDNSW
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  2. #12
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    Unless you are doing something non-standard, the thread is 11/16" x 16tpi NS, left hand and right hand. I would contact Mal Leslie first for a quote. It might be a lot less trouble getting one ready made. If making them yourself, use an intermediate tap for the internal thread as this gives a slight taper and thus less chance of a crack developing than if you finish with a bottoming tap.
    URSUSMAJOR

  3. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Brian Hjelm View Post
    Unless you are doing something non-standard, the thread is 11/16" x 16tpi NS, left hand and right hand. I would contact Mal Leslie first for a quote. It might be a lot less trouble getting one ready made. If making them yourself, use an intermediate tap for the internal thread as this gives a slight taper and thus less chance of a crack developing than if you finish with a bottoming tap.
    The ready made ones being the other option, i have found snake racing do them including heavy duty rod ends for 295 - same for the front steering link
    http://tinyurl.com/2jhzlc


    anyone else know of others who HD steering gear for good prices? my draglink bent like it was made from rubber thanks to the 37s driving in some ruts,, just to much for the stock gear,, chris's snagged a tree or 2 so we are both up for new ones! just gota weigh up if its worth the effort vs cost of premade ones..

  4. #14
    lokka Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by Brian Hjelm View Post
    Unless you are doing something non-standard, the thread is 11/16" x 16tpi NS, left hand and right hand. I would contact Mal Leslie first for a quote. It might be a lot less trouble getting one ready made. If making them yourself, use an intermediate tap for the internal thread as this gives a slight taper and thus less chance of a crack developing than if you finish with a bottoming tap.
    Thanks for the info and advice brian il give mal a call in the morning as for the boring and tapping il be geting them done on a lathe so they come out right ive got a few mates in machiene shops who can do lil jobs like this for me
    Last edited by lokka; 8th November 2007 at 10:02 PM.

  5. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by cal415 View Post
    The ready made ones being the other option, i have found snake racing do them including heavy duty rod ends for 295 - same for the front steering link
    http://tinyurl.com/2jhzlc


    anyone else know of others who HD steering gear for good prices? my draglink bent like it was made from rubber thanks to the 37s driving in some ruts,, just to much for the stock gear,, chris's snagged a tree or 2 so we are both up for new ones! just gota weigh up if its worth the effort vs cost of premade ones..
    pre made is easier. 5 years ago I was going to make my own (a friend in Sydney had the taps) but it was just too much hassle, so bought Maxi Drive ones.
    Interestingly the ADF Perentie ones are stock ends sleeved by heavy wall tube and welded. Obviously they still need a tap run through them after welding.

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