Thread: 300Tdi Timing belt changed by newbie

Originally Posted by DirtyDawg

when that belt go's you'll need a lot more than a new one...

Mate, you spoke the God's honest truth there!

New Year's eve 2000, 20 minutes out of Lake Grace heading to Esperance to see in the New Millenium at Duke of Orleans Bay. We didn't make it. Worst New Years Eve ever, and the most expensive.

I had my adjuster break and I thought that's it,it stuffed but one new rocker and a belt kit and she was as good as new.That was 2 years ago,done under warranty. Pat

Originally Posted by rrturboD

MinniTheMoocha,
Looking forward to the day I need to change mine!
How did you go holding/clamping the crank, cam/ pump gears in place? Did you use any specialised tools?
Michael T

the pump you use a drill bit the right size so if your like me and have lots of drill bits you will have one thats spot on. to lock the crank i used a left over main bearing bolt screwd straight in to the waiding plug hole but need to be machined to fit the slot in the flywheel. the cam shaft you just line up with the timeing mark theres no way to lock that. the balencer bolt should come un done easy enough as long as no bastard has locktited it. also useing the large bolt like i did on the flywheel means it locks it real well and can realy hang off a breaker bar to get it un done. but i just used a rattle gun

Originally Posted by DirtyDawg

when that belt go's you'll need a lot more than a new one...

Well thats true - so will have to carry some rockers and pushrods! And a spare timing kit.

Originally Posted by 460cixy

the pump you use a drill bit the right size so if your like me and have lots of drill bits you will have one thats spot on. to lock the crank i used a left over main bearing bolt screwd straight in to the waiding plug hole but need to be machined to fit the slot in the flywheel. the cam shaft you just line up with the timeing mark theres no way to lock that. the balencer bolt should come un done easy enough as long as no bastard has locktited it. also useing the large bolt like i did on the flywheel means it locks it real well and can realy hang off a breaker bar to get it un done. but i just used a rattle gun

there is actually two slots in the flywheel. One for the timing (think 4mm) and one for used when tightening it up (5-6mm).

To undo the flywheel bolt I used a crank bar with 27mm socket and rested the bar on the chassis. Removed the fuel pump power and turned over the starter once. This loosened the bolt which was loctited perfectly. The LR manual says the bolt should be loctited but I have it from others that instead of loctite to use thread sealer!