Thread: what to do when your lift is a little higher

Originally Posted by Grimace

OMG i was about |----| that close to just replying with this
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If you dont have a winch or duel batterys yet, spend your money on that and then once everything is level again (cause it will be). Get your self an adjustable panhard (front), and the rear wats link will need modification as it will bind way to soon.

Do a search (i think rovertym have a mod for the watts link), you will need to get one of the following for the front to correct castor;
Cranked front radius arms - expensive but good
Castor correction bushes - cheap but utter crap
Elongated swival ball mounts - i still prefer cranked arms

All radius arms points at the chassis will be under tension at ride height, so cranking the arms at the ends or fitting a rear chassis mount kicker (try maybe Les Richmond Automotive) to the rear will releive this tension and return the bushes to unloaded at rest.

Front drive shaft will need modifcation, and rear driveshaft will more than likely need attention.

Any tyres smaller than 33" will look silly and also unless you have decent offset rims your car will look tall and narrow and will feel the same once off the black top.

I am sure there is 100 other things I have missed, but i have never owned a D2.

All in all I think a D2 on 33-35" rubber with all the goodies will be fine at 4" spring lift. It just = more $$$ thats all

Cheers
Anthony

Hi Anthony

battery and winch are next and not to far in the future adjustable panhard (front) maybe needed ill wait for an alignment to determan if I need one. Rear wats link from rovertym done already in there Cranked front radius arms - expensive but good, you mean whould be good if however I dont think there made for D2

Originally Posted by Grimace

Elongated swival ball mounts - i still prefer cranked arms

Bit hard to do that to a D2... they don't have swivel balls...

Originally Posted by ROVERNIT

Oh goes to how much I know

And thats the scary part!

Your playing with a 2000kg weapon (eg.. moving ballistic) with a large serve of inertia...

Messing with brakes, Springs, shocks, mounts etc.... Plus CoG, and modifications which affect the handling is something you really should be careful with...

I'll put $100.00 on it, that it wouldnt pass the mandatory lane change test....

I also dont understand why you would want to do it so it looks so obviously illegal, your going to be a Cop magnet...

Our sport is always walking the fine line...
Do it right, do it safe, do it legal....

Originally Posted by BigJon

Bit hard to do that to a D2... they don't have swivel balls...

Ok so no swivel balls and aparently no cranked arms available for D2s

Thats a down right bummer. Sell it and buy a classic

Originally Posted by Grimace

Sell it and buy a classic

I'll choose to ignore that comment Grimace

Originally Posted by tombraider

And thats the scary part!

Your playing with a 2000kg weapon (eg.. moving ballistic) with a large serve of inertia...

Messing with brakes, Springs, shocks, mounts etc.... Plus CoG, and modifications which affect the handling is something you really should be careful with...

I'll put $100.00 on it, that it wouldnt pass the mandatory lane change test....

I also dont understand why you would want to do it so it looks so obviously illegal, your going to be a Cop magnet...

Our sport is always walking the fine line...
Do it right, do it safe, do it legal....

Totally agree

Originally Posted by tombraider

And thats the scary part!

Your playing with a 2000kg weapon (eg.. moving ballistic) with a large serve of inertia...

Messing with brakes, Springs, shocks, mounts etc.... Plus CoG, and modifications which affect the handling is something you really should be careful with...

I'll put $100.00 on it, that it wouldnt pass the mandatory lane change test....

I also dont understand why you would want to do it so it looks so obviously illegal, your going to be a Cop magnet...

Our sport is always walking the fine line...
Do it right, do it safe, do it legal....

absolutely

hence why Im trying to bring back to 4 inch up the shock rates and have it engineered and have as safe 4x4 im not hoon nor am I crazy driver (you learn not to be when you have a little one) since it was done it been driven home and not moved till I sort out the bits

Originally Posted by ROVERNIT

absolutely

hence why Im trying to bring back to 4 inch up the shock rates and have engineered and have as safe 4x4 im not hoon or am I crazy since it was done it been driven home and not moved till I sort out the bits

Excellent, good to hear...

Heres a suggestion...

Ring the engineer.. Ask what he wants...
Find out his suggestions on HOW to go about it...

Then do it...

It'll work out cheaper...