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Thread: what to do when your lift is a little higher

  1. #21
    Join Date
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    The thing about the D2 is that, not having swival balls the do the castor properly, the wandering will always be there, bringing the rear radius arms up to the front will only bring your castor to 0, same if you do the offset bushes.

    Another thing is that once you get the front down, when you load the car for a trip, the front will come up and your wandering will return, you may need to get Polyairs to level things out again.

    Knowone does castor kits for D2s because it's too hard and if they did it would be way too expensive, alot of engineering places have tried both here the UK and the US and still nothing.

    Adjusting your driving style is the key

    Should have got the Lovells like Slunnie and I have they are a proven product

    Baz.
    Cheers Baz.

    2011 Discovery 4 SE 2.7L
    1990 Perentie FFR EX Aust Army
    1967 Series IIa 109 (Farm Truck)
    2007 BMW R1200GS
    1979 BMW R80/7
    1983 BMW R100TIC Ex ACT Police
    1994 Yamaha XT225 Serow

  2. #22
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
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    Minchinbury NSW
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    Mmmm I should have gone levells as I said before anything that I steered away from slunnies directions is where thing are that need looking at

    Mmmm Dobinson who the hell suggested Dobinson

    Slunnies the man if he cant do it no one can
    Last edited by HAK; 14th November 2007 at 12:13 PM.

  3. #23
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    I've done a few things different to Slunnie, more as an experiment to see if other combinations will work and i have been successfull and unsuccessfull, my setup is a bit different too Slunnies but still works as well, but then we do different things when touring, he has a swag and i tow a camper, that's why my setup is slightly different, but the basic setup is the same (springs and shocks)

    The thing is, if i was going to do it all again from scratch, i would not go 4" as i did with the springs, instead i would go for a slightly less lift 70mm, maybe 75mm and go for 33s, you get almost the same lift but with less hassles with shocks and castor adjustments, extending brake lines and ABS sensors, panhard rods and so on so on.

    Anyway, get that front down, and get the bar and winch to get it down a bit more, say 1/2" less than the rear (i'm assuming your getting a bar and winch) and then get some Polyairs or Firestone air bags to keep things level when loaded for a trip, that should help.

    Baz.
    Last edited by Redback; 14th November 2007 at 12:33 PM.
    Cheers Baz.

    2011 Discovery 4 SE 2.7L
    1990 Perentie FFR EX Aust Army
    1967 Series IIa 109 (Farm Truck)
    2007 BMW R1200GS
    1979 BMW R80/7
    1983 BMW R100TIC Ex ACT Police
    1994 Yamaha XT225 Serow

  4. #24
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    Minchinbury NSW
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    I got the bar just need the winch B'day comming up let see how generous the wife feels not very I would imagine

  5. #25
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    Any idea on how I can correct the steering in the sence that the wheel sits to the left...


    Adjust the drag link

  6. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by procrastination inc View Post
    Any idea on how I can correct the steering in the sence that the wheel sits to the left...


    Adjust the drag link
    you mean undo the steering coloum so to speak and turn it and shove it back in again ?

  7. #27
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    Jun 2007
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    I was thinking of placing these on the Disco there of a POO POO POOtrol
    Last edited by HAK; 27th April 2008 at 09:14 AM.

  8. #28
    tombraider Guest
    You essentially dont have a sway bar, you have a hydromechanical stabiliser system.

    One of the best there is...

    Why? For the sake of an inch of lift would you want to fit gear like that and ruin an exceptional vehicle?

    All the extra money you'll spend on disconnects etc could be better spent biting the bullet and getting the Lovells springs....

    Additionally you'd need to disable the ACE system completely, remove the actuators etc and what would you end up with? A vehicle which is now nowhere near as good as what you had..

    I must be going soft in my old age, the max I would lift would be the same as Slunnie if I was going to lift it any higher...

    But i realised something... I've been everywhere in a 2" lift and have no desire to up my tyre sizes to gain real clearance under the vehicle.

    I already run 32's.... 33's would fit no worries..... And no hassles from rego or cops or insurance company in any way...

    If your going for 33's then your lift is more than required. The only real clearance you have is under the diffs, this will stop you every time compared to ramp over etc....

    The secret to the best "outback challenge" style vehicles is as low as possible with the biggest diff clearance possible....

    Slunnie reached the best balance of lift and tyre, combined with the best combination for touring and play....

  9. #29
    tombraider Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by ROVERNIT View Post
    you mean undo the steering coloum so to speak and turn it and shove it back in again ?
    NO!!!

    There are 2 bars running across under the front of the vehicle...

    1 from steering box to the left wheel.

    The other from the left wheel to the right wheel...

    EXTEND the front one (from steering box to left wheel)... And the steering wheel will rotate right and if adjusted correctly the steering wheel will be straight.

  10. #30
    Join Date
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    Quote Originally Posted by tombraider View Post
    You essentially dont have a sway bar, you have a hydromechanical stabiliser system.

    One of the best there is...

    Why? For the sake of an inch of lift would you want to fit gear like that and ruin an exceptional vehicle?

    All the extra money you'll spend on disconnects etc could be better spent biting the bullet and getting the Lovells springs....

    Additionally you'd need to disable the ACE system completely, remove the actuators etc and what would you end up with? A vehicle which is now nowhere near as good as what you had..

    ...
    where you show your age im showing my lack of knowledge

    I just assumed that when in low gear the hydrolics switch it self off, yet the arms go up and down because there connected yet running no presure but the arms are still able to bind up so there for in theory, when Im off road just disconnect them freeing up the ACE from binding up in any then reconnect them when back on the road


    Im in a nother planet I must be

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