Att! 2007 Defender engine sump gets damaged

Was searching for this and came across the site. So hello from Central America. I have a sump that looks exactly the same after a few 1,000km! And, before someone asks about susp mods, the only mod it has had is I threw the rearview mirror away.

My problem got a wee bit compounded as, brilliantly, the oil warning light does not come on if you rev the engine even a little (well, that's my excuse). It took probably 45 mins for all the oil to run out. Eventuallty going up a hill I hit high revs and bang went the turbo. As if by miracle the oil warning light decided to come on as the last of the oil went out the turbo seals I guess.

Still in for repairs. But, allegedly, is all under warranty.

Other than that am happy with it. Except the AC. It freezes really easily and needs me to switch it off for 5 mins and then back on again. Seems like it happens when I change the environment a little: window down to pay at a tollbooth or, on public roads, climb a few hundred metres where the air is cooler.

Just to clarify - when the front axle moves up and down relative to the chassis, or more precisely, when the end of the axle opposite to the steering box moves up and down, the panhard rod ensures it moves in the arc of a circle, and hence side to side as well.

As someone noted, the situation will be different on RHD. In this case, if lifted, with the original panhard rod, the axle will be to the left (towards the sump) in its static position, but would move to the right if the RH end moves up, but would still be to the left if the RH end is in its static position and the LH end moves up, and would move even further to the left if the RH end is drooped at the same time - i.e. cross axled. Add a bit of bush compression (or wear) in a dynamic situation .....

Although this probably would not have happened without the suspension lift, and probably cannot happen with RHD, it seems the clearance is a bit small to be safe in all situations.

John

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by JDNSW

As someone noted, the situation will be different on RHD. In this case, if lifted, with the original panhard rod, the axle will be to the left (towards the sump) in its static position, but would move to the right if the RH end moves up, but would still be to the left if the RH end is in its static position and the LH end moves up, and would move even further to the left if the RH end is drooped at the same time - i.e. cross axled.

---

Isn't the panhard rod set up changed to the opposite side with LHD?

I'm pretty sure it is on my Rangie.

Or have I misunderstood - which I think is very likely. I'm trying to get my head around this. :(

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Redback

That's interesting they now have a double cardan front shaft like the D2:cool:

Baz.

---

It doesn't look like a double cardan joint to me, just a single one. The yokes don't appear to wrap around to where a spigot would be.
Edit: That's the diff end, anyway. No wonder no DC.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by p38arover

Isn't the panhard rod set up changed to the opposite side with LHD?

I'm pretty sure it is on my Rangie.

---

Yes the panhard rods always follow the line of the steering drag arm. In germany (LHD if I remember correctly) you'd need to shorten the panhard rod to shift the joint closer to the sump. Most lifts people lengthen the panhard rod.

Dougal, remember on a previous thread you mentioned your RHS swivel housing doesn't have a steering arm and a bunch of people jumped on you ?

My Defender is bare on that side. Looks factory, too, not just snapped off.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by rick130

Dougal, remember on a previous thread you mentioned your RHS swivel housing doesn't have a steering arm and a bunch of people jumped on you ?

My Defender is bare on that side. Looks factory, too, not just snapped off.

---

:o:D

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Dougal

Yes the panhard rods always follow the line of the steering drag arm. In germany (LHD if I remember correctly) you'd need to shorten the panhard rod to shift the joint closer to the sump. Most lifts people lengthen the panhard rod.

---

Exactly. If the panhard rod was not lengthened when lifted, the prop shaft and diff are closer to the sump (LHD) from the sideways perspective, and for normal spring deflection it will return to its normal sideways position. But when cross axled with the LH spring fully compressed and the RH spring fully extended (beyond the factory droop), the prop shaft and diff will be closer to the sump than factory design. Not a lot closer (although that depends on the lift) but it does seem they cut things a bit fine.

John

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by JDNSW

Exactly. If the panhard rod was not lengthened when lifted, the prop shaft and diff are closer to the sump (LHD) from the sideways perspective, and for normal spring deflection it will return to its normal sideways position. But when cross axled with the LH spring fully compressed and the RH spring fully extended (beyond the factory droop), the prop shaft and diff will be closer to the sump than factory design. Not a lot closer (although that depends on the lift) but it does seem they cut things a bit fine.

John

---

If the panhard brackets haven't been altered and the original panhard is used, then the diff cannot get closer to the sump than it can in factory form.

If the panhard brackets have been altered, then all bets are off.

One other factor, had the diff been rotated (radius arm mods) as part of the lift? This could bring the drive flange end higher and closer where it would otherwise miss.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Dougal

If the panhard brackets haven't been altered and the original panhard is used, then the diff cannot get closer to the sump than it can in factory form.

<snip>

---

correct. a spring lift has no bearing on this whatsoever.