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Thread: Buying a Series 1

  1. #1
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    Buying a Series 1

    Hi all
    Just about to look at a S1 for sale for a mate of mine, and was wondering what are some problems to look for in a S1 when buying? it no longer has the rover engine by the way.

    Cheers
    Paul

  2. #2
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    [quote=paulthepilot_ it no longer has the rover engine by the way.

    Cheers
    Paul[/quote]
    in that case i would say, don't buy it. modified things are usually more trouble than they are worth.
    Safe Travels
    harry

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    Quote Originally Posted by paulthepilot_5 View Post
    Hi all
    Just about to look at a S1 for sale for a mate of mine, and was wondering what are some problems to look for in a S1 when buying? it no longer has the rover engine by the way.

    Cheers
    Paul
    Probably more than half of the series 1s no longer have the original engine and getting up towards a third to a half have Holden engines.

    Sometimes reversing a Holden conversion on a good chassis/firewall vehicle can be easier than repairing a rusty chassis and finding a replacement firewall.

    While I don't have one myself at the moment, Holden conversion Land Rovers also deserve a place in the historic record.

    Diana

    Addit:
    Check for rust:
    • In the middle/bottom of the rear cross member
    • firewall under the windscreen (both sides)
    • front dumb irons (behind the bumper bar mounts)
    • first outrigger on the 1954-1958 models (S shaped ones)

    Also
    • leaking fuel tank
    • original horn button/dip switch on 1948-1955 models
    • slop in the steering box (difficult to fix in Oz)
    • broken spring leaves
    Last edited by Lotz-A-Landies; 19th November 2007 at 02:31 PM.

    You won't find me on: faceplant; Scipe; Infragam; LumpedIn; ShapCnat or Twitting. I'm just not that interesting.

  4. #4
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    oops, my apologies, disregard what i said, had series 1 disco on the brain, a series with a holden may have its own peculiarities, but it was a popular mod. rusty chassis would be the worst thing and if the vehicle is from the coast that is a real probability. as for mechanicals, in a old vehicle it would be wise to show it to a series specialist.
    Safe Travels
    harry

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by harry View Post
    in that case i would say, don't buy it. modified things are usually more trouble than they are worth.

    Yeah, let me take the lemon off your hands instead.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by harry View Post
    oops, my apologies, disregard what i said, had series 1 disco on the brain,
    Wouldn't it have been nice if they gave the different variants proper codes. like Ford Falcon and Holdens then there would be no confusion.
    • There was never a series 1 Land Rover until the 3rd major variant the Series 2 Land Rover.
    • There was never a Phase 1 Range Rover till the Phase 2 came out and only the very last ones were the RR Classics.
    • Discovery: should have never been Series 2 perhaps Mk2 would have been better!


    Rant over
    Diana

    You won't find me on: faceplant; Scipe; Infragam; LumpedIn; ShapCnat or Twitting. I'm just not that interesting.

  7. #7
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    Ok Thanks, The guy that i am getting it for is planing to restore it, so if the chassis and the firewall is rust free (fingers Crossed) and it has not been to butchered then it will probably be worth recommending him to buy it.

    How difficult are S1 body panels to find, there would be a lot of S1's with only the bodywork left, and the rest rusted away wouldn't there?

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by paulthepilot_5 View Post
    Ok Thanks, The guy that i am getting it for is planing to restore it, so if the chassis and the firewall is rust free (fingers Crossed) and it has not been to butchered then it will probably be worth recommending him to buy it.

    How difficult are S1 body panels to find, there would be a lot of S1's with only the bodywork left, and the rest rusted away wouldn't there?
    Can you cut, drill and pop rivet aluminium? Body panels are no problem, they are all flat panels on the original Landy. The original box on wheels.
    And the old British Steel was pretty good too.

    The firewall can always be repaired. As long as it is still intact, rust can be cut out and new steel welded in. Worst comes to worst, fabricate a new one using nice sturdy galv RHS and sheet galv steel.

    That's what I have to do to the top section of mine, at windscreen level. Luckily, that is the only rust in it. The damned lower windscreen seal channel rusted out. Make a new one with the angle grinder and mig weld it in.
    Buy some bribes, I mean beers, for a mate who has a vehicle builders certification. Get the "A Okay" for Transport SA.

    Uncle Robert, has it fixed again.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by paulthepilot_5 View Post
    How difficult are S1 body panels to find, there would be a lot of S1's with only the bodywork left, and the rest rusted away wouldn't there?
    There are lots of good 1954 - 1958 S1 panels out there and if worst comes to pass, the front mudguards are available in reproductions from the UK and for the inner panels and tailgate they are relatively easy to repair with a TIG

    You won't find me on: faceplant; Scipe; Infragam; LumpedIn; ShapCnat or Twitting. I'm just not that interesting.

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