Thread: 300 Tdi sump

Hi Darren,

We use a Wurth silicone type sealant, which maybe expensive but works well and lasts.

We used to use Permatex ultra blue but it wasn't as long lasting as the Wurth product.

AFAIK there is no sump gasket available, but maybe a series one would fit?? The blocks are very similar....

JC

J.D. in Sydney fixed mine. He actually uses a special glue and glues the pan on. Not a single drip anywhere. Jim

Or is it his brother B.D.?I HAD A SENIORS MOMENT

I've just resealed my #5 main bearing cap and sump with Silastic # 730 (CBC bearings, $9 a handy tube). I've been disappointed with the Permatex blue - didn't work well on the sump at all. From what I can gather, the recommended sealant, Hylosil, is something similar to Loctite's Blue & Black MAXX, and Silastic's #730. But MAXX is $20 at tube (Rare spares), and it seems a bit silly not to try the industrial version from CBC.

I used a standard 4 cyl series sump gasket two years ago when I did some crank work on my car - it works but now with a decent sealant I can see why it's not needed.

I used a wire brush attached to a grinder to clean up the sump and block mating faces, and then cleaned it with paint thinners - so far the #730 silastic is holding up well. Mind you, I took my time, and tightened the bolts in two stages - after letting it cure for a few hours.

If the leak persists at the join of the block and transmission adapter, then you'll have to consider re-doing it and the t-seals of the number 5 main bearing cap. It's fiddly but beats taking the gearbox off to get at the rear engine oil seal.

I have a leak from the sump too.
Choice of sealants aside is the job of removing and refitting the sump a simple one (no annoying cross members etc??)

Cheers

Jason