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Thread: making a Series 3 more driveable??

  1. #1
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    making a Series 3 more driveable??

    Hi all,

    I've got an ex army series 3. Whilst I want to keep it original I also want to drive it a far bit and hence want to "soften" it just a little. Are there any little tricks to making this happen? Obviously it is a landrover so its always going to be a truck, but I was thinking an after market power steering box and maybe an over drive, but any other ideas would be great - maybe differen shockies, carby, etc etc?? (as cheap as possible)

    At present it already has a holden conversion which really only lets me get to 80-90km/per/hr before she screams.

    The other question is how should a holden coverted series 3 actually drive?? I've always wanted an ex-amy rig but never driven one so not sure if it is driving like more of a dog than it should, the gear box seems particularly rogh with a few cluncks, moans and groans during gear change. Also when you take your foot off the accelerator the car shudders a fair bit..hmmmm??


    Any tips or help would be great, then its into the workshop.

    Cheers
    Jimmy.

  2. #2
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    You are in a similar position to me, My ex army series 3 has a (poor quality) holden engine conversion.

    Depending on what sort of distances and roads you are traveling will depend on what is good.

    Power steering would be nice, but not really available at all, at least i've not heard of any for some time.

    If you are doing highway miles, an overdrive is a must. 80km/h is about all i get out of my series 3. I can push it to 90, but that's getting to some pretty high RPM for the engine. What sump do you have on it?? a larger sump is a good idea for highway miles as it can boil the oil due to the low volume of oil.

    Electronic ignition is the ducks guts. the coil and distributor from a blue motor will drop straight in and give a far superior spark, bordering on vicious! I got mine from a wreckers in reasonable condition. A larger diameter exhaust can also help, as can extractors. However extractors also put a lot more heat into the passenger footwell.

    Comfort wise, the original seats aren't too bad, but a simple cushion can really help. High back seats are also good if you can get them. Sound and or heat insulation can also work very well if done properly. Radial tyres can also be good, however I found my series 3 drove better with original style cross ply tyres. Just remember that cross plies run at much lower pressures, even on the highway.
    1994 Discovery TDi
    2004 Discovery 2 TD5
    2010 Discovery 4 TDV6
    1961, Series 2 Ambulance. 108-098 - Eden

    Registry of Ex Military Land Rovers Mem. 129
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  3. #3
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    Try getting some parabolic leaf springs with upgraded shocks, a bit of an investment but makes a world of difference to the ride and articulation. Check all the bushes and shackles and replace if they are worn, I did this recently and it has made the steering much tighter and no more clunks when cornering

    cheers
    Paul

  4. #4
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    either trade it in on a series II ... :P

    or get

    1) overdrive

    an overdrive will change your life, worth every penny you spend on them. massive difference in usability.

    2 ) parabolic springs

    turns them into a much more civilised unit

    see how you feel then
    ....
    2007 Discovery 3 SE7 TDV6 2.7
    2012 SZ Territory TX 2.7 TDCi

    "Make the lie big, make it simple, keep saying it, and eventually they will believe it." -- a warning from Adolf Hitler
    "If you don't have a sense of humour, you probably don't have any sense at all!" -- a wise observation by someone else
    'If everyone colludes in believing that war is the norm, nobody will recognize the imperative of peace." -- Anne Deveson
    “What you leave behind is not what is engraved in stone monuments, but what is woven into the lives of others.” - Pericles
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  5. #5
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    Don't forget to check all the universal joints, they clank and clunk.

    If you are game, Holden Commodore power steering looks like it will fit.
    I have a setup in the yard to try. Fabricate mountings on the front axle\diff housing to bolt the rack and pinnion gear into place, and hook straight back up to the King Pins. Modify the steering column to mate back up. Not just yet.

    At the moment, I am using a Toyota (SR5) steering box, mounted on the front right chassis rail, it's Pitman arm connects directly up to the Landy's drag link, a Daihatsu steering wheel and upper column, a Commodore lower column and uni joints, do away with all the ball joints, linkages, pillar shaft, and the Landy steering box on the Firewall.
    The Toyota box has more turns lock to lock (51\4 vs 31\2?), making it feel lighter, the Toyota's longer Pitman arm gives the extra push to take some wheel turn out, and brings all the links into a better, more even line.

    For a better ride, lots of people remove one leaf from the suspension.

    And the only Holden engine to run is a 186S. It's the only one that can actually rev faster than the Landy engine.
    A stock Holden can only spin to about 3,500 RPM. LESS than a Landy can do.
    Holden powered Landy's can't keep up with Landy powered ones.

    I'm using a Jap diesel, with it's 5 speed gearbox. Currently in the process of fitting the Daihatsu gearbox rear into the Landy T\case. That's how I'm making mine gallop at 95 to 100 KPH highway.

    Oh, and more modern seats DO help.

    Photo's and story will be posted in Projects/ S3 Change.

  6. #6
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    There is a very simple trick to amking the smile come back on your face whilst driving it (take the scenic way home)

    Power steering wise there have been one or two convertions from the original Armstrong power steering to a hybrid Toyota/Landrover setup. See Banjo's or Slunnies posts.

    Gearing wise you could always change the gearing or diff ratio's, change the box to an LT95 or something like that. From memory doesn't a series transfer case have the ability to be bolted behind anything? A 5 speed conversion could be an option.

  7. #7
    Join Date
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    I know off a couple of low KM's high speed diffs to suit a series 3.

    They where in my Dad's Ser3 for apporx 5000k's before the gearbox spat a mainshaft bearing. We are looking to part it out for spares soone.

    My be a tad expesive to **** to the east cost tho.

    Luke

  8. #8
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    The speed thing is best fixed with a "high speed transfercase" as your low range gearing is unaffected, you dont have an overdrive to service/repair/worry about, and you probably dont even use your current 1st gear with the 186 . But you mentioned "cheap", and a HST is around the $1000 mark so your next best bet is an overdrive if you can find one , or the later model 3.54 diffs.

    I found the steering in mine was fine if I adjusted/serviced it properly and ran skinny tyres, and was also good exercise in the carparks

    I was faced with same issues as your self, but in the end I sold it and got a 97 V8 Disco as a family wagon, then upgraded that to an 86 County

    Have fun with it.

    Bruce.

  9. #9
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    New bushes and removal of a couple of leaves made a big difference to my series3. Other than that I started thinking the same way as you - how can I make this "easier" to drive - but it gets expensive and at the end of the day you are trying to turn it into something it is not and never will be! Compared to almost anything else, a series Landrover is rough as guts, but we seem to love them anyway.

  10. #10
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    Jimmy

    You have most of the good oil on mods.
    • By far the best overdrive is the Rocky Mountain or Roverdrive but it comes at a premium price. Engineering wise there is no comparison between it and the Farey. The Roverdrive is an epicyclic box with constant lubrication from the transfer case while the Farey is a shafted box using parts from the Rover TC 2000 with oil overheating, oil loss and interface gear problems.
    • The best 186 Holden is one from a manual gearbox, there are some particular inlet manifolds that are better than others. Otherwise (what ever engine you have) get an after market cam that allows for a lower torque curve with higher revs.
    • Try to find a sump off an HT holden with the bulge in the centre not one of the ones with the bulge at the end.
    • FIT AN OIL COOLER - with the largest sized radiator you can fit. This adds extra oil volume and keeps the temp down. You can get simple conversions that simply spin onto the original filter base.
    • If you remove the gearbox for any reason - check which pressure plate it has. If it is using a Holden pressure plate - chuck it. Get a Land Rover Borg & Beck pressure plate and have the guts fitted into a Borg & Beck housing off a Standard Vanguard or Tea20 Ferguson tractor (which fits onto the bolt pattern of the Holden flywheel).
    • If it is a long wheelbase - (definate if ex-army) the Salisbury rear end limits your changed ratio options. You would have to jump from 4.7:1 ratio diffs to 3.54:1 diffs from a Stage 1 (series 3 V8) although there are some aftermarket ratios like 4.1:1. (The overdrive still gives you best flexibility with low and high gear ratios.)
    • Power steering - I have seen a Holden power steering box fitted to an S1, however the direction of travel is back-to-front so the lever on the power steering box is upside down giving poor longitudinal rod geometry and restricting the positioning of a battery in the engine bay. There are systems that use rams on the drag link - one vendor Chris Perfect in the UK has gone out of business.
    • It is possible to machine your swivel housings to remove the 1 deg camber for radial tyres, but you need to know what you are doing.
    • Parabolic springs are a good idea - expensive.


    Diana
    Last edited by Lotz-A-Landies; 4th December 2007 at 12:49 PM.

    You won't find me on: faceplant; Scipe; Infragam; LumpedIn; ShapCnat or Twitting. I'm just not that interesting.

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