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Thread: Longer shockies for Defender 110

  1. #1
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    Longer shockies for Defender 110

    G'day all,

    I would like a little better articulation (well actually downward travel) in my beastie and remember speaking with others and some of them mentioning putting something like Cruiser shockies on the front and Nissan shockies on the rear as they have better downward travel?

    Does anyone know if this is fact or fallacy?

    I'm a bit hazy as I didn't write anything down and was just wondering if there was any truth to the rumour of getting better wheel travel out of the Defender without going crazy.

    This is on a standard height vehicle and I have no interested in giving her a body lift...

  2. #2
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    Nevermind, found what I was looking for

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Grizzly_Adams View Post
    Nevermind, found what I was looking for
    I would like to know too!

  4. #4
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    fact

  5. #5
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    ok then, well I found this thread by TheLowRanger On "WANTED: More Flex"

    The crux of it comes down to a post by tombraider:

    Quote Originally Posted by tombraider View Post
    The thing is your "static" flexing the the vehicle.

    The front wont flex as well as it can with the rear level on the ground...

    AND as for traction from big articulation, Bull****!

    A lightly loaded tyre sitting on the ground will do NOTHING.....

    Sure it looks good, but its useless!

    Lockers are traction, flex is body stability.
    So I'll stick with bigger tires and look at replacing all my shockies with either the normal LR type Koni's or Bilsteins

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Grizzly_Adams View Post
    ok then, well I found this thread by TheLowRanger On "WANTED: More Flex"


    So I'll stick with bigger tires and look at replacing all my shockies with either the normal LR type Koni's or Bilsteins
    Another aspect that occurred to me is longer shocks could allow your springs to drop out of position .. .. by virtue of the std length limiting the amount of droop.

  7. #7
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    telescopic springs

    re that comment about an "unloaded" wheel on the ground, i saw an article in a popular LR mag advertising telescopic spring, a smaller one inside the main one. When the main spring runs out of articulation, it doesn't dislocate, the smaller one pushes out further and pushes the wheel to the ground...
    For my money I reckon a diff lock would be best, then who cares if one wheel is in the air!

    Dave
    1974 Military Lightweight Landy --- Some dementia at 50 years old
    2000 Disco series 2 now sadly moved on!
    No5 Trailer joined the fold... Awaiting graduation to road licensed!
    2021 Mazda BT50 or is that DMax?

  8. #8
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    that'd be the x-spring Dave... thought a few times about getting a set to test

    FOX 2008 RRS - Artemis 1989 Perentie FFR - Phoenix S2a 88" with more - Beetlejuice 1956 S1 86" - GCLRO #001 - REMLR #176
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  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Grizzly_Adams View Post
    ok then, well I found this thread by TheLowRanger On "WANTED: More Flex"

    The crux of it comes down to a post by tombraider:



    So I'll stick with bigger tires and look at replacing all my shockies with either the normal LR type Koni's or Bilsteins
    Along those lines. Why do people bother with dislocation cones (and the silly springs mentioned above)?
    I'd much prefer to retain the springs as once they're off the seats, they're doing nothing anyway.

    With more articulation, you need longer and softer springs to get the traction benefit. But most rovers I see have significantly stiffer aftermarket springs which give less traction than stock on uneven ground.

  10. #10
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    I had the rear shocks out of my D1 on Tuesday and noted the part numbers as both F4-B46-0253-H0 (Bilstein).
    I have an approx 2in spring lift.

    What I also noticed is that when the bottom of the shock is unbolted but the top of the shock is still bolted up, the shock only extends about 2 inches further down. This must restrict wheel travel a fair bit. As I like the shocks I have I was thinking of getting those brackets which lower the top shock mount and getting some longer bump stops so the shock doesn't then top out.

    As for having non retained springs and long travel suspension not giving you any traction, why is it that a Rangie in our club (you know who you are ) has this setup and he can drive some amazing lines with his lockers turned off that I need a rear locker to follow (due to lifting wheels cross axled) him if I'm game to even try?

    Grizzly maybe you could get these shock top mount drop brackets instead of longer shocks?

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