Thread: Series Oiler engine

Black smoke at full throttle is pretty normal. Grey smoke may be due to incomplete atomisation of fuel, and indicates an injector overhaul is in line. The rough running supports this (leaking valves would be expected to cause rough running at slow rather than high engine speeds). On the other hand, the "grey" may really be "blue" indicating oil burning, due to worn rings and bores, and uneven compression could cause rough running, although this would normally improve at high rpm. Incorrect injection timing may also be a problem.

The most likely situation is some sort of a combination of the effects mentioned above.

Rough running at high revs could also be due to restricted fuel supply, and filters needing changing could be a reason, although injector problems are more likely.

I would suggest that changing the fuel filters and checking for free flow of fuel (crack the return line when running - should get fuel everywhere!) would be a first step, but plan on getting the injectors overhauled, and probably also the pump.

John

As John said, replace the filters, have the injectors, pump and timing checked and make sure there is no air leaks into the system as that would cause no end of problems.

Rough running at higher revs does suggest a fuel/timing issue...

In good condition LR diesel engines do run quite cleanly and give good economy (I'd get below 10L/100km) but, as all diesels do, they will smoke on heavy loads.


--Irek

I'd be looking at the injectors aswell

Deffinatly worth changing the filters but I wouldnt imagine it will change much as far as the smoke goes.

While youve got the injectors out getting checked/cleaned/rebuilt then give it a comp test.

G'day Paulthepilot_5

Why don't you PM Blknight.aus and he might be able to help you, if it is not fuming out of the oil filler tube it won't be too bad hope that helps

cheers

PS sad to hear of the death of Col Pay,the War bird man, lost in an Airtractor accident.

throw a bottle of good injector cleaner/lubricant through it before the injectors come out. Add a bottle of something like Redline RL2 (available from Bursons) in a full tank of BP diesel and see if that helps over the tankfull.

old sereis diesel blowing a bit of smoke huh?....

skip the filters for now, its running so its getting fuel. first stop is a compression check and since you need to remove the injectors or the glow plugs to effect that go the injectors route the same rules for a compression check on a petrol apply on a diesel but DONT let me repeat that DO NOT do the wet check.

if the compression comes up ok (and even if it doesnt) do the field injector check on each injector putting the injectors on one line in turn. to do this simply invert the injector when its on the injector line and place a small block of wood between the injector and the block/head and then crank the engine over with the fuel cut out in the run position till the injector starts to "fire" tie rags around the other lines to catch the diesel they will spit. once youve got the injector primed hold a white card (you'll need 8 of these) infront of the injector about 10 cms away (full PPE thanks) and crank it over (or have a friend do it) while you watch the pattern. you should see a fine conical mist shoot at the card and you should get a nice even pattern on the card. repeat for each injector.

Once youve gotten that done (im tipping that the injectors will fail miserabley) take the best of the lot and run it on all of the injector lines and check for difference in the pattern. There shouldnt be any but if there is its time for a pump overhaul.

new nozzles and tips for a series diesel are only about $35 each including the seals to reinstall the injector.

once youve worked out whats actually naffed then go about cleaning out the fuel system DONT do the fuel addative thing other than a little metho to make any water absorb into the fuel as all that stuff does is take gunk thats happily sitting somewhere and move it somewhere else.. And thats bad for fine tollerance diesel stuff. IF your not going to the effort of rebuilding the fuel system then its reasonable to use it. New fuel filters, new seals and new injector nozzles (with a reset of the crack pressures) generaly sort out about 80% of the problems with the old series diesels and most of it is a DIY if your moderately capable, For an skills equivelency Id sit it between doing a swivel housing with a Halfshaft rebuild but easier than changing a cam in a 2.25 (petrol or diesel)

the injector nozzles seem to be good for about 100K to 150K depending on fuel quality and how well you nurse the engine. a diesel will happily make about 125% of its rated power to its own detriment so long as you use the engine correctly you should see the upper of those figures.

Feel free to PM me.

*********edit*************
another reason for not doing the addative is if it solve the problem it may only be temporary and while it cures the symptom it doesnt fix the problem.
*******endedit*************