Thanks JC.
If I do end up pulling the diff out (meaning I don't find it elsewhere) then I'll give you a call.
I guess it could be in the front diff too but the clunk feels rear and it doesn't come through the steering.
I'll drop the rear swaybar now and see what happens on the drive to work tomorrow.
I tightened all the ones I saw. Will double check tomorrow.
The only body mounts I had trouble with were the very rear ones. The top of the bolt is obscured by the bumper. They are fairly tight but could be tighter.
What do you use to hold the bolt while you tighten the nut? Surely you don't have to remove the rear bumper.
I have a selection of specially bent 9/16" ring spanners for these tasks...
JC
I have a few incomplete sets of cheap spanners (from before I saw the light and bought Sidchrome). I might just make up some of those 'LR special tools'![]()
[quote=Utemad;652411]Not the most common name in Oz but I have noticed we aren't the only two on this site.
Well Hi Justin... and Justin, It's Justin.
Have to say I was going to make the towbar comment. My mate had an issue with a "clunk" from his Patrol for ages we were looking all over it and then one day another mate was visiting while we were checking fluids etc and walked straight in to the tow bar tounge.... clunk.. Thats it! (Sometimes it is the most obvious things.... LOL)
Well I have removed the A frame balljoint and the carrier (still together).
I cannot feel any loose movement in the ball joint when I move it through its entire movement range nor is there any up and down movement.
However what is different is I have a new genuine LR balljoint here and I cannot move the balljoint at all. It is seriously tight.
So is the fact that I can move the old balljoint any way I like with minimal resistance whereas the new one is stiff enough to toss the old one?
AFAIK the old one has 191000kms on it as AFAIK it has never been replaced.
I'll swap them anyway as I have nothing to lose.
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