Aim it at the thermostat housing.... That's the ideal location.
I'm sure someone will correct me if I'm wrong but IIRC late 90s/low 100s is what it should be.
HTH
M
Laser thermometer sounds like something only an expert would have. I have one at work for checking roller temps but if i took it of the premises there would be problems. Where would i aim it too get the readings anyway all the water hoses i suppose and then compare readings? Also what temp would you think would be right? Also the other problem is i'd have to find another bloody big hill too get enough load on the engine for the temp to rise as it will only get hot when it is worked very hard for quite some time. As in continual climbing of mountain range with revs up above 3000 rpm or pulling a van up a steep hill under the same sort of load. Outside air was over 30 deg when it played up yesterday for the first time without towing. I'll give kedron rovertech a call and see what he thinks a cooked motor is not the kind of xmas present i want this year.![]()
Aim it at the thermostat housing.... That's the ideal location.
I'm sure someone will correct me if I'm wrong but IIRC late 90s/low 100s is what it should be.
HTH
M
sounds about right as a lot thermostats are only fully open at 92deg. thanks for the input.
a good tip here, i borrowed a laser thermometer to prove i had a constant temp at the thermostat, onto top of the radiator and on the block
after a couple of months when i used the headlights and windscreen wipers the temps would either go up or down
i tried running new earths with no luck so in with a new mechanical temp which has worked a treat
I've been down this path with exactly the same problem just recently and I have cleaned up the earthing points and it appears to have improved things. My temp would climb but as soon as I switched off the aircon or lights it would start to sink back down.
My Mechanic checked out the colling system and gave it a clean, also replaced the coupling which was tired.
We are having a cool snap at the moment and I have been only doing short trips round town so have not been able to replicate conditions to see if it gets hot but I will be paying very close attention to temperature; coolant levels etc over the holidays with some country drives.
Correct me if I'm wrong, but the "laser themometer" mentioned above is probably a infrared non-contact thermometer. Many of them have a laser pointer built in to assist in aiming them. Very handy tools. Can get them at Jaycar for around $70.
2012 110 Defender
Im sure the laser thermometer would be a handy tool but there is nothing better than dropping the coolant and changing the thermostat and having a look to see what is in the radiator and tanks to tell you what is actually going on in there.
If the Radiator hasnt been cleaned in the last 12 months and the coolant hasnt been changed in the same then it is worth changing them anyway and the thermostat should be changed anytime the cooling system is touched (e.g. with coolant change and flush or if you change the water pump or anything like that) so that everything is how it is meant to be and in the best condition possible.
As far as under load the flow should increase in the cooling system, thats not really correct as the coolant flow is only relavant to engine revs and weather the thermostat is open or not, engine load cant have any bearing what so ever.
Mine had a bit of a rise last week coming back from Albury on the Hume just out of town on that long hill with a head wind, 4 adults and 2 spares and the tent on the roof rack and the aircon on full blast and it went up to about half way between the hot mark and where it normally sits but as I know that everything is pretty much clean and new in the cooling system I can put it down to Load and Mud build up in the radiator which I will fix (by giving it a good clean out) when I go back to work.
Good luck with it, it isnt a huge stress unless it is doing it all the time but once in a blue moon when there are other factors involved you wont need to worry that much.
On further investigation i have found that some of the fins seem to be crumbling so I'm going to replace the radiator as there is no point in getting it rodded out if the fins are nfg. Bloke at natrad who i rang about the problem says it seems be a fairly common problem with them. Luckily i've been able to locate a second hand one that's said to be good as new ones seem to be very pricey.![]()
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