Technically, I am ;).
DiscoII has the same set up as the P38a. They use ball joints instead of swivel bearings.
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Like a Cheap I mean Jeep....:D
First LR copy Jeeps Dana Diff and then they do the stupid thing and copy their front end.
But thats ok, Jeep copied their suspention for their coilers in the front but went 5 link in the rear just so you cant get flex out of them without spending mega bucks.
Jeep bagging over.
Just another reason not to buy a D2 :wasntme: sorry guys, I couldnt resist ;)
Silly Lift well I never, hmmmmmm no not worth biting at :twisted:
I don't know I asked the guy how much is it out by he said -2.7 now if the measurement is +3 then its out by 6 and I have to wait till feb till a set of radius arms can be made now if it 0 then its out by 3 and I can get a set straight away I wasn't going argue with the guy not knowing what I was talking about actually no it doesn't bump steer all that bad surprisingly however its something that I will address hence the question ;)
Didn't you get a print out?
I haven't followed the whole lift saga so I don't know if you've modded your panhard rod yet, but the panhard rod angle, and the angle of the draglink from the box, is what will tend to induce bump steer once you lift it. With a solid axle, caster & camber won't have much influence toward bump steer, wishbone are of course entirely different.
However if you've got -2.7 caster (as long as it's even) it will drive straight but will handle poorly, tending to understeer quite badly ; as you turn in the -ve caster will induce +camber. Mind you this was normal back in the day, you older blokes remember HQ Holdens & older, pre RTS?
If you have 2.7deg LESS THAN the 3deg specced (ie near to zero) then it will be very wandery (and handle poorly for basically the same reason as above).
But I'm sure you researched most of these issues before you went for an extreme lift;).
You reckon? when I machined my swivels the difference was amazing;)
I just put the diff's out of my RR tray in my new hiline, with standard height springs(had to get the diffs out of the shed to extend)....talk anout RTC, with probably near +8 gegrees of castor:eek::D, must put some higher springs in:angel:
Well worth having a bite at, your suspension wil cost you more than I could build you a tuff assed RR classic for........but We want go on about that, you've probably heard it a zillion times before
Go BACK to knuckle at the wheel aligners, and state you'd like the following
A. Current Castor angle
B. Correct/Recommended castor angle
The difference between the 2 will be the correction you need......simple really:p
Then you'll increase the angle of the front tailshaft Uni joints, but seeing as your going to do the lift at any cost:eek:
Damn I dont have that smilie with the pop corn :D:D:D:BigThumb: