Caster question caster was out -2.7

tombraider · 29th December 2007, 03:11 PM

Originally Posted by discowhite

yeah but them bushes dont work, to hard chop out, bla bla bla

cheers phil

Hehe, you forgot, restrict flex, reduce articulation....

And dont forget, they are legal, and we dont want that!

**discowhite** · 29th December 2007, 03:19 PM

he he!
everybodys 100% legal on this site

its only illegal when you get caught

cheers phil.

**Slunnie** · 29th December 2007, 03:34 PM

I know that this is the common thought with castor correction bushes, and something no doubt that stems from the likes of OME or whoever using hard polyurethanes, but is this the cast specifically with the Superpro ones and I ask this as they have a number of different poly formulas with different levels of stiffness.

tombraider · 29th December 2007, 03:38 PM

Originally Posted by Slunnie

I know that this is the common thought with castor correction bushes, and something no doubt that stems from the likes of OME or whoever using hard polyurethanes, but is this the cast specifically with the Superpro ones and I ask this as they have a number of different poly formulas with different levels of stiffness.

Slunnie,

DW is having a stir.... Him and I both run / ran SP bushes in the front of the Defenders....

They work fine.....

And the benefits completely outweigh any losses from the offset of the centre pin to one side.

**Slunnie** · 29th December 2007, 04:28 PM

Cool

I've got some spare radius arms here and was wondering if it was worth trying them out.

**discowhite** · 29th December 2007, 04:53 PM

the problem with the whole poly bush is that everybody is still living in the past and referring to their experances in the 70's!
SP bushes are designed for 4x4's and are as flexable, MORE durable and easier to fit than OE bushes.
they are nothing like the red/yellow noelethane(sp) type.

my d1 was 80% SP bushed and the 90 is 100% SP apart from the pin ends of the shocks, it flexes fine youve seen it.

cheers phil

**Slunnie** · 29th December 2007, 04:59 PM

Good stuff, thanks for this Phil. I have, and it flexs mad! Oh well, that sounds good then. Actually, it'd also be interesting to see what it does with driveline vibes too.

**discowhite** · 29th December 2007, 07:22 PM

i think there is more transmision of noise but i have a defender, loud anyway and you have a disco2, quite and insulated, in the end i'll still go deaf b4 you

as for the vibes? who knows? the 90's 3'' lifted without and DC shafts
and has no vibes, couldnt tell in the old disco due to the 32'' mongrels

cheers phil

**HAK** · 29th December 2007, 07:31 PM

So where are we at, I always tend to create a good topic

is it cut and reweld is it radius arms or is it bush's maybe I should make a poll I'm confused I don't think I like the cutting and welding business to risky I think, however I will do the shock mounts, so the thought of bushes are a 70's trend and are ok now, radius arms are suppose to be lighter and better for flex I'm confused

**Blknight.aus** · 29th December 2007, 08:58 PM

Ok to sum it up in "explain it to the boss" lingo.

your problem is that with your lift the front axle has been tilted too far forwards in turn tilting the steering pins and its playing merry hell with your steering geometry...

the concept of the fix is simple you need to tilt the steering pins of the front axle back until they are back where they were.

you have 5 options

cut the flanges off that mount the swivels then weld them back on in the correct place.
remove the mounting hardware for the axle itself and roll the whole axle back to the right position then weld it all up again
use a special bush in the locating arms that will tilt the axle back in about the same way as option 2
bend the locating arms so that they hold the axle housing in the correct orientation
cut off and lower the chassis side mount for the locating arms and weld them back on in a lower position

option 1 requires extensive welding skill and alignement jigs to prevent additional wear, as you dont want cutting or welding this is way out.

option 2 requires welding skill and jigs but is not quite as critical as option 1, also out as you dont want welding or cutting (and saying its not quite as critical is like saying hitting the wall at 105kph instead of 110 is better, both these options are risky for the same reasons)

option 3 is about as simple as replacing your locating arm bushes but the bushes have the center pins off center so when you put them in they cant the axle in the locating arms the trick is getting the offsets the same. This is the easiest, most reliable and repairable if you stuff it option, If you get it wrong just press the bush out and have another go, theres also bushes that have adjustable cams on the bolts.

option 4 achieves the same as option 3 but by bending the arms, easier to deal with when it comes time to replace the bushes but its got legal issues. You can get arms that are manufactured with the correct bend in them but AFAIK you still require engineer reports to fit them

option 5 is just a case of dropping the pivot point of the locating arm down by the same amount as your lift returning all the suspension geometry to the same relative starting point. this is out due to the no cutting and welding thing and you wont believe the amount of work to get the approvals for it.

that any help?

Thread: Caster question caster was out -2.7

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