I've had it.

Forgive me for my ignorance but are you sure the box is LT77 and not R380 or are we not talking about your Disco here?

If R380, 1st and 2nd are on the same syncro pack so if you lost 1 you would more than likely lose the other but I no nothing about the LT77 so I cant coment.

Im still thinking it would be more clutch related if it is intermitant as once your moving and if you were changing at the correct revs/speed then you wouldnt need to use the clutch to change up but changing down might be interesting with out blipping the throttle.

I suppose it could have worn the grooves in the syncro ring and that would have that sort of effect but it wouldnt be intermittant or it may be full of crud and dislodging it every now and then.

Too many things it could be with out driving the car for my self I dont think I could pin point it on here.

:- is there noises?
:- What does the pedal feel like?
:- What does the change from 2nd back to 1st feel like?

etc etc

You may be on the money but I wuld start at the easy/cheaper stuff first and work to the pricey stuff later rather than throwing money at it while not having it properly diagnosed.

By the way Im not saying you dont know what your on about before I get chewed out but there is a lot of feel etc involved in stuff like this so get a second opinion from a LR mechanic or some one in the know.

Did you apply emergency repair procedure number one? which is hit it with a big hammer, if problem persists consult your doctor

Quote:

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Originally Posted by mcrover

Forgive me for my ignorance but are you sure the box is LT77 and not R380 or are we not talking about your Disco here? My Disco is a 1994MY, LA chassis so its before the update. It has the LT77S (reverse top left, with the 'S' standing for revised synchromesh:D, yeh righhhhhttt)

If R380, 1st and 2nd are on the same syncro pack so if you lost 1 you would more than likely lose the other but I no nothing about the LT77 so I cant coment.

Im still thinking it would be more clutch related if it is intermitant as once your moving and if you were changing at the correct revs/speed then you wouldnt need to use the clutch to change up but changing down might be interesting with out blipping the throttle. Yes, if I shift 2nd to 1st double clutch blipping the throttle it goes straight in nicely.

I suppose it could have worn the grooves in the syncro ring and that would have that sort of effect but it wouldnt be intermittant or it may be full of crud and dislodging it every now and then.

Too many things it could be with out driving the car for my self I dont think I could pin point it on here.

:- is there noises?
:- What does the pedal feel like?
:- What does the change from 2nd back to 1st feel like?

etc etc

You may be on the money but I wuld start at the easy/cheaper stuff first and work to the pricey stuff later rather than throwing money at it while not having it properly diagnosed.

By the way Im not saying you dont know what your on about (Actually this is quite correct, I'll be the first to admit I'm not good on the transmission side of things, I've never worked on one before.) before I get chewed out but there is a lot of feel etc involved in stuff like this so get a second opinion from a LR mechanic or some one in the know. Any good referrals you know as my current one couldn't find a problem?

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^^^:D

Where in town are you?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by joel_nicholson

****

Probably a good time to admit too, that at 290,000 km half a circlip drained out of the gearbox. Now have 305,500 notched up.

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Now that's not a good sign!

It sounds as though the circlip may have come from the synchro hub and its affecting only the 1st gear side.

I had assumed that the problem was occurring whilst stopped rather than still moving, hence the clutch thought.

with the syncro setup its entirely possable that all you have is a worn cone on the syncro, the most common cause of this is downshifting to first at speed (OOMA say over 5kph), once the cone wears away enough the thing will no longer seat correctly in gear and will "rattle" in place and eat the retaining circlip and possabley the guiding slides for the syncro pack.

Heres the good news Its entirely possable that all you have damaged is the syncros themselves as they are about the softest metal in the gearbox however prudence dictates that as replacing the syncros pretty much requires a complete rebuild of the box you might as well rebuild it ESP if your doing it as a DIY. Yes IMHO if you own or can borrow a set of feeler gauges and a DTI with the manual and putting your fear of it on hold all of the rover manuals are a DIY ESP if youve done something as finicky as say replacing the swivel pin bushes + bearings on a landy.

Avoid driving it as much as you can as while its spitting metal bits out theres the chance that something is going to wind up somewhere you dont want it.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by mcrover

Where in town are you?

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Mont Albert North 3129

Mine's a different box, but it was always a challenge to get it into gear. 2nd would always crunch (even heard a 'crunch, tink, tink, tink' once :o). It would never go into reverse unless i waited 20-30 seconds or forced it in (crunch!). Clutch master died the other week, so i put a new one in with new hoses. All problems gone now (goes thru the gears nicely).

I am no expert in any way, but this may help ;)

I've just come inside from changing the gearbox oil and I am completely mortified by the fluid that drained out.

The drain plug was full of filings, as was the extension case filter.

The worst part was the Transmax Z that had only done 4,500 km. It has lost its translucency and its completely opaque, loaded with swarf. It looks like a metallic green paint colour. I'm also assuming that the geartrain has sheared it to buggery as it is as thin as water, far thinner than when it went in.

I know a simple fluid change will not fix a problem, but I'm off for a drive now and when I get back I'll post a few pictures of the old fluid.

Test driven and everything is 100000 times better, 2nd to 1st still needs a double de clutch but all other notchiness has gone and the box feels much tighter and smoother. It no longer whines at low revs, I will take it onto the freeway later and see how whiny 5th is at low revs.

I have now successfully converted from using ATF - all previous posts where I advocate the use of ATF I now revoke.

As for the grinding 2-1, I can accept that damage has occurred and needs repairing. I reckon I can safely drive it provided I shift 2-1 once stationary, until the 7th when my mechanic reopens. I will certainly be bottling the fluid for him to see.

Excuse the crap quality.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...2007/12/62.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...09/07/1240.jpg