Thread: Oil leak, Axel/diff or swiver housing?

Stevan there is a gasket at that point or there should be. poss yours is stuffed or not there. It should not leak at that point. The bolts are tight I assume? The oil at that point is coming from the diff, not the swivels as there is a seal that should stop the oil coming from the swivels back, and visa versa.
Brad

Thanks Brad, I guess it's just another job on the list !
I checked the diff today and it's got loads of oil in, for now.

Looks like a long job just for one seal/gasket though I'm guessing I'll have to pull out the shafts ?

Maybe I'll just keep topping it up and get a sand floor in the garage

Originally Posted by HangOver

Looks like a long job just for one seal/gasket though I'm guessing I'll have to pull out the shafts ?

I reckon you could just unbolt those bolts and slide the whole hub assembly out a bit, apply some Loctite 518 or 514 and bolt it back up.

However I dunno how easy it would be to get the axles back into the diff. I reckon it's worth a try (do one side at a time).

anything that makes a job quicker/easier is worth considering, I'll make sure they are, (very) tight first though. Might just have worked loose, how nice would that be

theres a paper gasket inside there which is highly over rated....

loctite 571 is the answer and you only have to undo the 6 or 7 bolts to change it (6 for series 7 for county/deefer/perentine).

heres how I do them at work (EMEI's be damned)

lift up the offending side (I use a 2 post hoist cause it makes it really really stupidly easy)

tie a rope around the wheel then sling it up over the vehicle and tie it off to the other side so it takes the weight

unbolt the 7 bolts (they are bihex heads so your limited to a ringspanner, i use a double offset ring/ring)

slide the housing outwards about 3/4 of an inch (20mm) be careful here as you will probabley drop diff oil)

using a scraper scrape out the old gasket (it should just come out after you tear it unless its been gooped in place) then wipe out the remnants with a rag.

look inside and you will see a raised lip you want to get a bead of 571 on that lip and the face it stands proud of

once the bead is complete slide it back together and replace the bolts from the top of my head the torque setting is 70nm (check that) and you use loctite 243 on the threads.


remove the rope, lower the vehicle and never worry about that side again.

IF your pedantic you leave the vehicle up for at least an hour before leveling it off, filling the oil and driving it to allow hte 571 to setup.

you dont have to use 571 almost any oil resistant gasket sealastic will do the trick.

G'day HangOver

That looks like the underside of a Series Leaf Sprung Vehicle, if so it would be the paper gasket between the Axle housing and the swivel base, loosen/remove the bolts, supporting both the axle housing AND the swivel/wheel,only needs to be an inch off the ground this might be done better with the wheel removed and an old rim fitted, with the bolts out and the swivel assembly pulled out about 1/2 inch then run a bead of silastic or similar around the flange, if the paper gasket is still there and clean put the silastic over the top of it, retighten the bolts, using new nyloc nuts or thread lock bolts need to be tight (50+ft/Lbs) if you want to do the job properly then remove the swivel housing complete with axle clean surfaces and new gasket with Loctite No3 Gasket goo, and replace.Don't forget to replace the steering lockstop in the correct position.

cheers

Originally Posted by Blknight.aus

theres a paper gasket inside there which is highly over rated....

loctite 571 is the answer and you only have to undo the 6 or 7 bolts to change it (6 for series 7 for county/deefer/perentine).

heres how I do them at work (EMEI's be damned)

lift up the offending side (I use a 2 post hoist cause it makes it really really stupidly easy)

tie a rope around the wheel then sling it up over the vehicle and tie it off to the other side so it takes the weight

unbolt the 7 bolts (they are bihex heads so your limited to a ringspanner, i use a double offset ring/ring)

slide the housing outwards about 3/4 of an inch (20mm) be careful here as you will probabley drop diff oil)

using a scraper scrape out the old gasket (it should just come out after you tear it unless its been gooped in place) then wipe out the remnants with a rag.

look inside and you will see a raised lip you want to get a bead of 571 on that lip and the face it stands proud of

once the bead is complete slide it back together and replace the bolts from the top of my head the torque setting is 70nm (check that) and you use loctite 243 on the threads.


remove the rope, lower the vehicle and never worry about that side again.

IF your pedantic you leave the vehicle up for at least an hour before leveling it off, filling the oil and driving it to allow hte 571 to setup.

you dont have to use 571 almost any oil resistant gasket sealastic will do the trick.

^^^^^that

tightened all the nuts up F-tight today I'll see if that stops it first,all moved a few mill, if not out come the spanners, again.