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Thread: Replaced head gasket now wont start 300 TDi

  1. #1
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    Replaced head gasket now wont start 300 TDi

    Hi all, I just replaced the head agsket myself, i have know mechanical knowledge but did everything by the book. The engine wont fire and i may not have set the firing order right, is it open when the spring is down or up?
    I have bled the injectors as well.
    The vehicle was running well before hand, just emmitting a lot of steam.

    rgs Les

  2. #2
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    Valves are open when the spring is down and compressed.
    Last edited by Lucus; 12th January 2008 at 04:38 PM.

  3. #3
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    Can anyone advise 1 through 8 is it from front of motor, and do i set them one at a time.
    Rgs Les

  4. #4
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    the valve train starts from the front of the engine (where the fan is) and works backwards...

    the best way to do the valves is thusly

    get the engine at TDC on #1 (use the timing mark on the crank) then check which set of valves are on the rock, which means that both valves are open a little bit and the opposite piston on the crank (cyl 1 or 4) will have its valves both closed. this will be apparent by both valves having some lash on the rockers. These are the valves you adjust. Turn the crank over 180 degrees and the next valves in sequence will be ready to adjust (cyl 2 or 3). keep turning the crank in 180 degree increments untill youve done all the valves.

    Theres a few differing opinions on weather you should do them with the engine hot or cold.

    Mine says you do the final check and adjust on a hot engine and others (rovercare for one ) thinks cold...

    This is a topic thats been covered a couple of times before if you search the tech threads you should find a much more detailed effort..

    But if you need more help let us know.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
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  5. #5
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    The power of 9...

    Count from the front 1 - 8. When valve 3 is fully down, adjust valve number 6 (3+6=9). When 4 is down, adjust number 5 (4+5=9). Etc...

    When you go to fire it up, just make sure you've re-connected the fuel pump solenoid.

    HTH

    M

  6. #6
    Rovernaut Guest


    Instructions from Rave


    ENGINE

    1 ADJUSTMENT REV: 05/99
    VALVE CLEARANCES - CHECK AND ADJUST
    Service repair no - 12.29.48
    Adjust
    CAUTION: If the crankshaft is rotated with
    excessive valve clearace, it is possible
    that the push rods could be dislodged
    from the cam follower seating and fracture the
    cam follower slide. To prevent damage, eliminate
    all clearance from any loose rockers before
    turning the crankshaft to adjust clearances.
    1. Rotate crankshaft until No.8 valve (counting from
    front of engine) is fully open.
    2. Using a 0,20 mm (0.008 in) feeler gauge adjust
    clearance of No.1 valve.
    3. Slacken locknut and turn adjusting screw
    clockwise to reduce clearance and
    anti-clockwise to increase clearance. Tighten
    locknut to 16 Nm.
    4. Repeat operation for remaining tappets in the
    following sequence:
    No.3 tappet with No.6 valve fully open.
    No.5 tappet with No.4 valve fully open.
    No.2 tappet with No.7 valve fully open.
    No.8 tappet with No.1 valve fully open.
    No.6 tappet with No.3 valve fully open.
    No.4 tappet with No.5 valve fully open.
    No.7 tappet with No.2 valve fully open.
    5. On completion, recheck clearances and adjust
    as necessary.

  7. #7
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    Hi all, still having some problems understanding how the firing order works.
    Is there a mark on a pully somewhere that indicates when a valve is open or is it by sight. What am i looking to achieve to get it to start.
    rgs Les

  8. #8
    Join Date
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    there's a 5mm slot in the flywheel that indicates No. 1 cyl, TDC (top dead centre) Look up though the bell housing to sight it. Be careful, there are actually two slots in the flywheel, the correct one is exactly 5mm wide. I have a 1/4 BSP nipple that I've tapped to 6mm internally, and I've machined a 6mm bolt to 5mm on the end to lock the flywheel there.

    TDC is when the pump has sent it's shot of fuel to the injector, which ignites when it hits the compressed, hot air in the chamber.
    At this point No. 1 cyl valves are closed. Both rockers to valves will have play (0.008'') and you should be able to slide a pin (IIRC it's something like 9.5mm) into the relevant slot/hole through the pump pulley in the timing case cover.
    If you have done all this and you have fuel at the injector it will fire.

    BTW, I've always adjusted 4cyl valves the way Dave describes. (used to do it a lot on certain race engines).
    Just seems easier/more intuitive to me.

  9. #9
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    is it possible that the cam is 180 degrees off from the injector pump?? ie when #1 is on compression # 4 is getting the fuel?? I have never done a TDI but there are engines out there were this is possible
    disco seriesII mods so far:-bullbar,hyd winch,
    detriot locker,lsd front,C.D.L kit,chipped and bigger intercooler,2" lift,rock sliders, lsd in transfer case, modified auto trans.

    In the event of nuclear war,Disregard this message

  10. #10
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    still trying to fathom the information, i have not as yet located the notch in the pulley as yet, is it the drive pulley below or is it up high?
    Can anyone advise how to get the fan off, the allen keys i have dont seem to have enough room to get in and i have the long shanke type with smaller head.

    rgs Les

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