
 Originally Posted by 
rick130
					 
				 
				OK, where to start.
First up, coils and live (solid) axles all round, not independent.
Flex OK from the factory, with a little work, flex can be great. 
Prior to '02, all 130's had a bullet proof rear diff, (known as a Salisbury, it's based on a Dana 60 ) but axles and drive flanges are prone to wear/breakage, but can be upgraded easily. (axles are splined both ends, with a separate bolt on drive flange, unlike flanged one piece full floating assemblies of most other manufacturers) Later (post '02) versions use a weaker CWP.
130 chassis can crack where the upper trailing arm crossmember meets the  main rails. I think this just happens to be the major stress point in torsion with the extended wheel base. Those that do crack here have had a hard life.
Front diff is relatively weak, even compared to 79/80/100 Series TLC, as are CV's but most last OK unless 33's+ and a heavy right foot is used.
TLC high pinion can be fitted to Rover housing to beef it up a bit.
Jac McNamarra make a casting to use the Hilux low pinion front diff.
G/box is also (relatively) weak compared to Patrols, etc. but not too bad.
T/case is bloody strong and low range gearing is very good compared to Japanese t/cases.
Engines (Tdi and TD5) can either be really good, or, these days in the case of the TD5, you wished you'd never layed eyes on it as it appears that when they go wrong, they can go wrong in a costly way, but mostly they are really good.
There's been a few 6.5's fitted over the years, and the owners are usually really happy.
We have a Patrol coil cab ute, as well as the 130 Crew Cab, and I prefer to drive the Landy, and it is inherently more capable off road, too. The Patrol's great, and overall is stronger in the driveline, but I reckon the Landy has the edge in chassis strength, and it's a more engaging drive.
			
		 
	
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