Master
G'day Ron,Originally Posted by RonMcGr
I presume your newly ordered snorkle is an "Airflow" brand as i bought mine from British 4wd.
Don't rush the install and be very carefull with your measurements before drilling any holes, the template supplied does'nt match the snorkle
I also had to fabricate an extension onto one of the pieces supplied, situated inside the front quarter panel, that connects the snorkle to the airbox, as there was no way to do the connection in a suitably watertight manner.
I suspect the piece supplied, when removed from the injection mould after being made, was trimmed a bit too much........
Master
Thanks Dave,
What about the heat issue? Is it better to run an extension to the front/side of the engine bay instead of a snorkel? I've seen a few pics lately that show (what appears to be) a radiator hose on the air intake to extend it to the front left side... I'm talking RRC carby model with short air intake above the inlet manifold...
RoverLord
The snorkle beats an in engine bay air intake every time (unless your driving in say antartica or the top of everest) and even then there are ways to "optimise" your air intake to minimise air intake
things like a short straight run done with smooth piping (think downpipe)
Dave
"In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."
For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.
Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
TdiautoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)
If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.
YarnMaster
Anotheer tip I read somewhere for the viscous type fan is to drill a small hole in a couple of blades of your fan and before entering deep water hook an Occy/Bungie strap through the hole and secure the other end.
Never tried it but the theory seems sound.
Stops it eating your radiator and throwing water where it's not meant to be.
I also have the manual choke carby V8 and an observation I made a year or two ago after a sandy convoy trip to wedge/Lancelin, around that area anyhow long dunes trip. After the trip several participants complained about a lot of sand in their filters and had to enpty them at the end of the day, and the second day!
I checked mine and nothing !
I have changed my air filter once in about 2-3 years not because I'm a cheap B..........., (I am but thats besides the point) but because it's spotless.
I think the air intake position for the carby V8 isn't too good for cool air but it's about the best place to avoid crap getting sucked in.
If/when I fit a snorkel no way will I get an air ram, maybe one of those centrifugal jobbies?.
Just my 2c
RoverLord
urrmmm sounds like a disaster waiting to happen to me.... picture the cord snapping and then flailing your electrics while on the way to gettting sucked into the belts to throw them off but only after the hook of the strap stresses the end out of the fan, which fails later, unbalancing it so that even after you fix all the other stuff the fan now vibrates the snot out of the viscus coupling causing the seal to fail letting all the fluid out contaminants in which then prevents any significant drive from actually getting to the fan.
But since you drive it 2000Km on the road at highway speed the airflow of the vehicles motion is enough to keep the engine cool so your not aware of the damage to the coupling and the fan untill the water pumps shaft bearings fail letting all the coolant out which doesnt register as the temp gauge wont read correctly while its in air and the engine siezes up after blowing the head gasket.
Or even more entertaining the vibration causes the viscus coupling to fail as previously mentioned and with no lube the bearings shred themselves and build up enough heat and scoring away enough metal that the fan comes off and is stabbed through the radiator and the aircons condensor which you dont notice as its night time, the aircon is off and once again the temp gauge doesnt read air temps so the engine cooks itself with no warning...
If I had the viscus coupling Id just take the screwdriver to remove the shroud and the right size spanner to undo the nut that holds it on the pump shaft then fit a dummy nut to stop the threads from getting fouled....
Dave
"In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."
For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.
Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
TdiautoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)
If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.
YarnMaster
Hmm prob not a great tip then
Sounded good at the time but like I said never tried it.
Master
SupporterI have my doubts about the 'ram air' benefits of a snorkle - would have thought the length and convoluted route of a snorkle would have meant that is anything, airflow is slightly constricted. A short 'cold air' intake pointing straight out of the front of the car would result is some positive pressure in the airbox, but of course wouldn't have the other benefits of a snorkle...
You obviously missed the link Lucas put it!
" LRA Snorkel: my experiences.
Hi Guys,
yesterday i installed a Les Richmond Autos snorkel to mmy 93rrc. Heres what i discovered.
( i am able to read all these parameters on my wolf 3d ecu screen)
Pre snorkel
Ambient 30deg c(tested using a small digital thermometer)
Intake air temp (at 70 k's per hour) 65 to 70deg c
Coolant temp 95 to 99 deg c dependant on load (ie up or down hill)
AFR at 70kph cruise set 15.1:1
Vacum at W.O.T. at 70kph 20 to 25kpa.
Post snorkel:
Ambient 44(phreaking hot!!!)deg c
Intake air temp (at 70 k's per hour) 45 to 49deg c
Coolant temp 92 to 95 deg c dependant on load (ie up or down hill, remained below thermo fan cut in temp at 70kph)
AFR at 70kph cruise set 16.2:1(lots more air!)
Vacum at W.O.T. at 70kph -02 to 00kpa.
To say i am happy is an understatement. I tested the before and after runs on the same 30km route between mny house and my fiance's house.
I went 4wding today in 33deg c heat and the hottest the car got was 102deg c and that was after about a 2km slog in 3rd gear low range at 40kph in the sand. The car would normally reach 108+ doing this. I also managed to banish the dreaded pinging i had in low range at high load but i also ran octane booster so i will have to retest the car again minus the o2 booster. But the 20 deg reduction in intake air temp had got to help. Btw the car had a totally standard intake system prior to fitting the snorkel and is fitted with a 4.6ltr.
cheers
Luke"
I'm sure that proves otherwise.
ForumSage
If you read that link again, I've added some more comments.
Basically with two runs, one at 30 deg C and the other at 44 deg C the aerodynamic drag on the vehicle changes quite a lot (lower drag in hotter, thinner air).
This alone accounts for the better result at higher temps.
IMO the changing AFR between the two runs is also a concern.
Yes I did, home made filter and housing, sucking air near the bonnet.
I think snorkel up near the roof is going to pick up cooler air and less dust.
The top of the snorkel will also draw FAR more air than the tiny funnel sitting behind the head light in my Disco 1.
FWIW, Norm Dewis drove a Jaguar XK120 in Belgium, 1953, and won the highest speed for a production car.
He was in Brisbane at one time and told us they removed the drivers side headlight and put a funnel in it's place, leading straight to the twin SU's. He got that car that normally did a 120mph, to do 173 mph. He achieved that by the funnel and sitting on the floor with no windscreen.
Compressed air does work.
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