Thread: Weaco CF 50 problems

A poly fuse is just a fuse that cuts out at a certain current, it doesn't blow like a normal fuse, but may stay "off" for a little while before resetting.

It could be replaced with a piece of wire (like any fuse can) but probably won't work like a fuse anymore . It will probably be soldered onto the circuit board if its the type i'm thinking of.

They do come in different current ratings, and they are very cheap (under a dollar from memory) although a repairman would charge a tad more i think . It (could be) a rould yellow flat thing the size of a 5, 10 or 20 cent coin (if its the type i'm thinking of).

I use them at work. We have a few current ratings (can't remember them). If you think you need one, PM me and i'll check the current ratings on them and send you a few.

Also, i started a Waeco CF-50 thread a few weeks ago that had some good info in it to.

I've since run heavy wiring including -ve to the sockets and put a merrit socket in.

Haven't had a chance to test it out yet...

Originally Posted by Bulldog

A poly fuse is just a fuse that cuts out at a certain current, it doesn't blow like a normal fuse, but may stay "off" for a little while before resetting.

It could be replaced with a piece of wire (like any fuse can) but probably won't work like a fuse anymore . It will probably be soldered onto the circuit board if its the type i'm thinking of.

They do come in different current ratings, and they are very cheap (under a dollar from memory) although a repairman would charge a tad more i think . It (could be) a rould yellow flat thing the size of a 5, 10 or 20 cent coin (if its the type i'm thinking of).

I use them at work. We have a few current ratings (can't remember them). If you think you need one, PM me and i'll check the current ratings on them and send you a few.

Thanks heaps Pete, I'll crack it open tomorrow and see what I find and let you know from there.

I know my supply is good as I have tested it with a different 6mm cable going direct to both batteries (at different times) and It doesnt drop below 13v when it does run so Im about 90% sure it's the fridge and the repair man was very helpful in telling me it was this poly fuse that id never heard of before.

He recons that 9amp is the way to go so I will open her up and see if I can bypass it tomorrow and test it to see if thats the problem.

Originally Posted by rangieman

Did you run a earth from your aux battery to the rear socket ,If not this can cause problems

If all fails flog that plastic junk on ebay and buy a real steel fridge(engle)

I've heard some people say to run an earth from the battery; others say from the chassis - presumably it can't hurt to run from both at the same time?

My Waeco CF-50 is 3 years old and for 2 years I used continuously in the motorhome.
The only problem with them is electronic controlled thermostat. I replaced it by one of the old models (a knob) and runs very good.
The serviceman who sales and repairs Engels, Waecos and Evakool told me that if one day I get another one to go for the Evakool. No electronics on them.

When I ran mine for 3 days straight I just had one of those extension cig points they sell in super crap and hard wired that to the 2nd battery no prob

Adam

Here is a link to Danfoss tech. info. There may be something of assistance. At least you can see what the flashing lamp code is.

http://www.sundanzer.com/PDF/Danfoss...nics_Specs.pdf

llandro

Made some sort of stuff up there.
Should end up:
Danfoss_Electronic_Specs.pdf
I have the site on my fav. list, comes up ok there.
llandro