Can't comment for TD5 but can for 300Tdi which I presume is the same or at worst very similar...
I've changed the master several times
* Take off bonnet
* Unscrew rectangular plate on top of clutch tower
* Unscrew push rod and retaining nuts bolts (can be fiddly)
* Fit new MC (reverse of opposite)
* Bleed
Personally, the most frustrating part for me has been the bleed. Last time it was a 3 person job (pedal pumper, reservoir filler, bleed nipple operator) but a brake bleeding kit could reduce the people needed.
I'd allow less than an hour to do the MC changeover. Add bleeding to that.
On the Tdi, apparently the clutch pedal should be about an inch below the brake pedal at rest. Any higher and the plunger in the MC can over centre an prematurely wear the seal out. My mechanic told me this after mine failed after 6 months.
'95 110 300TDI, F&R ARB Lockers, Twine Shower, Aux Sill Tank, Snorkel, Cargo barrier, 9 seats, swingaway wheel carrier, MadMan EMS2
'85 110 Isuzu NA 4BE1 3.6l Diesel, 0.996 LT-95, Rear Maxi (SOLD)
'76 SIII 109" Nissan ED33 5-SP Nissan GBox (SOLD)
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