Thread: Replacing big end bearing on 4ltr V8 series 2

Geez I found the importer which is Mann und Hummel Australia.

The short story is that Pure 1 will not be available in the L14670 size.

The guy at MH did a big sell on me to buy Mann filters which are apparently to be more widely distributed shortly. He gave me Sydney
Filters and Whites Diesel as sources, but kept me on the phone for about 30 minutes exploring the mann sizes with no real result, but now I know how to navigate the MH website!!
I think I will keep buying The Purolator Premium Plus in the short term.
Regards Philip A

Originally Posted by skymack

Could someone give me any indercation to how long it would take from start to finish replacing big end bearings V8 4 ltr series 2 - small knocking noise when starting in the morning - 5 seconds then goes away

Does the Oil light on the dash go out as soon as you start the car from cold?
If the oil light doesn't go out almost immediately, but stays on as long as the knocking sound does, then you may have an oil supply problem, could be anything from worn bearings to stuffed oil pump.
To check for Bearing Knock try this:
Start engine from cold and let engine reach normal engine idle, with your head under the bonnet, grab the throttle (accelerator) arm and very slowly increase the revs to about 1500rpm, hold it there for say 5 seconds, then let the throttle go and as the engine speed drops back to idle LISTEN carefully for any bearing knock which if present you should be able to hear.
Diagnosing engine noise problems is like asking "how long is a bit of string", I would fit an oil pressure gauge first and see what sort of oil pressure you have.
I had an engine once that suddenly started knocking, sounded exactly like a big/end knock, as I started to pull the engine out I removed the Fan belt and noticed that a strand of the belt had delaminated and rolled up into a ball on the inside (V side) of the belt. So I started the engine without the belt and no more knocking, put the belt back on and the knock was back again.
Moral of the story, check out as many things as you can that may be causing the knock before you start changing bearings, it could be something as simple as an oil pressure relief valve stuck momentarily, allowing oil to bypass instead of going to the bearings, an oil analysis might help also, would like to get some feedback on what the problem is when you find it, Regards Frank.

I think Phillip and Dave are on the money with the tappets being the culprits, m y maye had a 2000 or 2001 D2 that had noisy tappets and was so bad LR eventually replaced the whole engine.

I'm going to wake this from the dead regarding the incredible misnomer about drainback valves.

The purpose of the drainback valve is to keep oil in the filter. Period.

The multiples of passages inside the engine will allow oil to drain from the top of the engine into the sump. Oil will be picked up from the sump via the pump, through filter then maybe cooler then through oil galleries. This included crank feeding bearings (main and big ends, maybe even piston pins if the rods are drilled) up to the cam and rockers/lifters if applicable. There's plenty of space for oil to return.

The "anti drainback" is no more than a flap of rubber over the holes that are then inlet to the filter (oil flows from outside in) and is held in place by the weight of the oil on it. No springs or anything. If you can see a spring down the centre of the filter then it has a btpass valve which opens when the filter is blocked. Hopefully it's changed before then.

Now given the location and orientation of the filter (pointing downwards and at least somewhere below the ol level in the sump) oil MUST be in the filter. Some vehicles way back had the filter mounted higher so it was easier to change and also screwed on vertically which would allow the oil to flow back to the sump (and make a mess).

I can qualify this by saying I have worked in hydraulics for 10+ years and the only screw on filters that have the flap are specifically designed to mount vertically with the inlet pointing down.

While your optimum setup would be a 5 or 6 stage drysump with a 10l tank, external coolers with thermo fans and thermo bypass of the cooler and larger, water absorbing filtration mounted off the engine locating it would be as challenging as fitting a high mount warn to a mini.

An accumulator (cylinder pressurised to slightly lower than engine operating pressure) tee'd into the remote filter head can be used to pre oil the engine (use stored pressure to pump oil through the engine, can be switched elec or manually) and also acts as a buffer in case of surge by pumping oil into the line if pressure drops due to air in circuit. When supply from pump returns oil pressure is greater than the cylinder and it's refilled with oil under pressure. Planning on doing this myself as I have to rebuild this long weekend

I'm going to wake this from the dead regarding the incredible misnomer about drainback valves.

The purpose of the drainback valve is to keep oil in the filter. Period

.
I find your post really surprising seeing on several occasions I have had the low pressure problem , ie light on/noise for 3-5 seconds, changed the filter and completely solved. I cannot see the purpose of the post other than to deny reality. I think we all know the anti drainback valve is a flap of rubber but the quality of the seal by the flap of rubber is important.

Where do you think the oil comes from when you drop the filter off? Thin air?

There is significant oil in the galleries above the filter and this oil runs out when the filter is removed, and also runs out if the anti drainback valve is faulty.

Regards Philip A