Master
Pictures will follow....i got my exhaust modded yesterday and noticed a slight improvement in power, got home and, as luck would have it, blew the small coolant pipe that goes into the EGR heat exchanger. The pipe was extreamly brittle and had been baked to within an inch of its life.
So, i fabricated a new bypass pipe and blanking plate and removed the EGR valve and heat exchanger.
The Disco is now much more responsive, a noticeable improvement in power (can fire TC on bitumen..........in the wet) and revs/runs alot smoother.
I'm still smiling from the test drive.
Am going to Geelong tonight so will see how it goes on a longer run.
Cheers, Phill
Master
I believe some Disco's don't have the heat exchanger on the EGR Valve system. For those that do, i strongly recommend you check the condition of the small coolant pipe connecting the coolant reservour to the heat exchanger. Mine was extreamly brittle and burst when i touched it. Luckily happened at home and not out on the road.
Master
Picture of the new "free flow" section of exhaust replacing the centre muffler as done by a few others. A noticeable improvement in the turbo's ability to spool up quicker, engine definately revs easier and only marginally noisier.
Master
Will post more pics another day as it's currently taking around 30mins to upload 1 pic
Master
Others have covered how to remove the EGR valve. This is a picture of the complete assembly on the floor. Also see the photo's showing the amount of air restriction from the internals of the valve and the amount of crud fed into your engine from the exhaust.
Time to remove was about 30 mins. I was'nt happy with the amound of crud i scraped out of my inlet manifold, easily a layer 1mm+ thick all around the inside of the manifold of tar like goop.
Master
I fabricated my own bypass kit using a piece of stainless pipe i got from the scrap bin at the exhaust shop when my exhaust was being chopped. Pipe is 58mm OD and cut to the same length as the valve assembly it is replacing. The flange welded to the pipe and the blanking plate are 5mm steel i had in the shed.
To bypass the heat exchanger i got a brass reducer from Reece plumbing with barbed ends to suit flexible pipe. The pipe from the coolant tank is 8mm internal and the pipe from the heat exchanger to the block is 12mm internal. The replacement pipe + hose clamps + some gasket paper were from Repco.
Master
Adjust your turbo watsegate so it is fully closed with the engine off as well.
BradM
Master
Why and how mate?Originally Posted by BradM
How's the noise since you removed the centre muffler.
Regards
Barjop
Master
Keeps a slightly higher boost on quicker. The wastegate modulator will stop any thing going over. I have found that the LR dealers that I have been to drop it back to 12 psi as a standard.
You will see a rod attached from the wastegate actuator to the gate on the turbo housing. With the engine off undo the lock nut and adjust it up by turning the adjuster until the gate is fully closed.
I have a TR ECU Remap, EGR removed, vortex muffler and the gate wound up. All runs just perfect together with about 30 - 40 % more go. Been like this for about 8 months now with no problems after I worked out my MAF was stuffed.
I spent a lot of time troubleshooting with pressure guages attached to the wategate modulator pressure line and inlet manifold to see what was going on.
BradM
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