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Thread: Deep Cycle Batteries

  1. #11
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    Kyabram, VIC 3620
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    Yes 100 watt will be okay (100w / 12 = 8.33r amps)

    As for checking the SG just buy a cheap tester from the autoshop

  2. #12
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    Hi garrycol, if you have to ask how to test the batteries then you don’t know what you are doing and you are far more likely to get it wrong.

    I’m not having a go at you but testing batteries can by iffy at the best of times, so as it costs you nothing to get the batteries load tested by someone who SHOULD know what they are doing, save yourself the trouble ( and guess work ) and go and get them properly tested, then you will know for sure as to their real state.

    Cheers.

  3. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by garrycol View Post
    two deep cycle batteries in parrallel - supply the 12v system to the the car - the two other 12v normal batteries in series provide power for the 24v systems = I have four batteries in total - 2 in a 24v starting and car system circuit recharged by a 24v alternator and two 12v deep cycle that provide 12v and recharged by a 12v alternator - yes my car has 2 alternators.

    I really do not feel like lugging 2 deep cycle batteries to the battery man and then deal with the sales pitch when I I find they are dud - as I suspect. Hence the post - is there a way I can test at home after they have been on slow charge for 24 hours.

    Cheers

    Garry
    Get a Hydrometer (I think that's what they are called), you know one of them plastic tubes with the rubber suck bulb on one end and a rubber straw on the other with the floating guage inside, you suck up some battery fluid from each cell and it tells you the condition of that cell, also very good at transporting battery acid to your toolbox, if batteries have been sitting for a while some INOX battery conditioner works wonders, Regards Frank.

  4. #14
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    Jan 1970
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    Wheelers Hill, Melbourne
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    Quote Originally Posted by drivesafe View Post
    Hi garrycol, if you have to ask how to test the batteries then you don’t know what you are doing and you are far more likely to get it wrong.

    I’m not having a go at you but testing batteries can by iffy at the best of times, so as it costs you nothing to get the batteries load tested by someone who SHOULD know what they are doing, save yourself the trouble ( and guess work ) and go and get them properly tested, then you will know for sure as to their real state.

    Cheers.
    Dont listen to him
    This forum is here to help

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
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    back in the suburbs, near joondalup
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    if you can drive your 101 drive it to the nearest supercheap, they will test your battery for free and as the staff are all about 10 years old and don't really care they don't try to sell you a new battery.
    BTW the tester they use looks quite nifty, it gives a digital readout and paper print out.

    The printout has heaps of figures that didnt mean a lot to me but in the end one battery was buggered the other was OK.

  6. #16
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    Aug 2006
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    Melbourn(ish)
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    if you goto one of the places that provides the testing service have them test and print out the battery results (note which one is for which one) then key up the numbers here as well as the specs on the battery data sticker we can tell you what your batteries are actually like.

    those Hi amp pulse testers are just the thing (the electronic ones with the digital read out and the thermal printer) but I think they tend to issue "failed" a little too easily epescially if they are clamped onto the battery cable clamps and those are a little dicey.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
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  7. #17
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    I have found Lee and Thomas (Battery World) in Phillip, see Mark Roberts. They seem happy to test and so far feel that the advice has been realistic and straight, but no real sales spiel.
    PS. as a Land Rover person, you should also ask for a club price!
    Michael T
    2011 L322 Range Rover 4.4 TDV8 Vogue
    Aussie '88 RR Tdi300 (+lpg), Auto (RIP ... now body removed after A pillar, chassis extension to 130 & fire tender tray.)

  8. #18
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    Canberra
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    Quote Originally Posted by drivesafe View Post
    Hi garrycol, if you have to ask how to test the batteries then you don’t know what you are doing and you are far more likely to get it wrong.
    You are probably quite right - that why I asked the question.

    Garry
    REMLR 243

    2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
    1977 FC 101
    1976 Jaguar XJ12C
    1973 Haflinger AP700
    1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
    1957 Series 1 88"
    1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon

  9. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by DeeJay View Post
    Dont listen to him
    This forum is here to help
    Tis Ok - is a forum to express ones opinion - all comments are helpful
    REMLR 243

    2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
    1977 FC 101
    1976 Jaguar XJ12C
    1973 Haflinger AP700
    1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
    1957 Series 1 88"
    1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon

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