Thread: do we have any transmission experts here......? re: BTR 93LE

Yea im pretty sure when you split the cooler in the radiators the water which runs threw the box screws the friction clutches in the gearbox. Usually have too get another box. Ive seen that happen on about 4 ba falcons.

Originally Posted by George130

Welcome to the record breakers. We were told the falcon gearbox isn't supposed to last that long.
Very little water will destroy the friction material. As BlkNight said that's what killed my Lock up clutch in the torque converter. Tiny bit of water got in there and due to how it works stayed in the TC. Chances are that is your problem. Was also told it's common in the Falcon's that once they play up and gets a service it only lasts a couple of weeks before going back for a rebuild.

Not sure where you get the info that they shouldn't last that long,,, but they should do that with "ease",,, taxis have been known to do close to a million klms,,, and you'll know they get treated poorly if you've been in one,,

DZ, the chances are you have a blocked solenoids from just general crud, and "possibly" jammed/tight valves,,, water shouldn't damage the friction plates unless their already severly damaged to start with,,,
If you can get the serial number from the trans, I might be able to find out some info on it,, (ie; if its already been in for warranty service etc,)
And the only oil that should be used in this trans is ATF TQ-95 (and its RED,,,not green) This is "a" probable cause for it failing now. TQ-95 is the best lubricating/preserving oil for these gearboxes. (lubricating for the gears-preserving for the plates)
Also, if its been over filled, this may also cause some of your symptoms, (but this should have been noticed when you first picked it up) Did they say if it had what essentially would be decribed as, a "copper colour" to the original oil and was it like treackle??
The first thing you should do is get them to put the right oil in it and see what happens,, and this will probably need to be done at least twice to remove the "green stuff" out of all the lines and converter,,,,,,

Originally Posted by Chops

Not sure where you get the info that they shouldn't last that long,,, but they should do that with "ease",,, taxis have been known to do close to a million klms,,, and you'll know they get treated poorly if you've been in one,,

DZ, the chances are you have a blocked solenoids from just general crud, and "possibly" jammed/tight valves,,, water shouldn't damage the friction plates unless their already severly damaged to start with,,,
If you can get the serial number from the trans, I might be able to find out some info on it,, (ie; if its already been in for warranty service etc,)
And the only oil that should be used in this trans is ATF TQ-95 (and its RED,,,not green) This is "a" probable cause for it failing now. TQ-95 is the best lubricating/preserving oil for these gearboxes. (lubricating for the gears-preserving for the plates)
Also, if its been over filled, this may also cause some of your symptoms, (but this should have been noticed when you first picked it up) Did they say if it had what essentially would be decribed as, a "copper colour" to the original oil and was it like treackle??
The first thing you should do is get them to put the right oil in it and see what happens,, and this will probably need to be done at least twice to remove the "green stuff" out of all the lines and converter,,,,,,

Sorry about that,, Bad reading error on my behalf,, I'd like to say I'll get the right glasses on,, but alas, they were,,the rest still stands though,,,

Slight Hijack .... but hopefully turn up relevant with tips & tricks for DEFENDERZOOK ...

Originally Posted by Chops

I might be able to find out some info on it,, (ie; if its already been in for warranty service etc,)

Chops .... I have the 95 (96) NL? Fairlane with the 6cyl Auto .... The box works well ... but has a habit of,, after 10k's & warmed up // dropping Top gear and holding 3rd (Limp mode) it holds 3rd all the time (stopped to go) ... The only gears that will operate is 3rd or reverse // untill I stop and let the box cool down (cold)

I suspect the S5 solenoid ... and have all the replacement solenoids & the book on how to do it ....

I want to replace all with the box attached under the car .... Any Tips or surprises as I undo the pan and get to the valve body???

Mike

Mike,

You can wash all your parts etc in kero with no problems, have plenty of rags handy,, you'll need them,, And a big oil catchment tub/tray for when you take the pan off.

Apart from the fact you'll get covered in oil,, if you undo the V/B altogether,, Dont let it "hang" from the wiring loom. So depending how well set up you are, you'll want something to rest it on. (You could buy yourself a couple of extra long bolts (3-4") to use to hang it from the trans itself, which will allow you to work on it like that.) then remove them and refit it.

The "Z" link causes the most problems for people as its fiddly to replace.

You need to hold it with your thumb and fore-finger whilst holding the V/B at an angle, with your other fingers taking the weight of the V/B (with your other hand at the other end too) slot the link into the Manual Valve hole (man valve half way out) and then line it up with the connecting hole in the "chooks head" (as we call it) and attemp to slot the V/B into position in the trans. Place the M/Valve end/corner in first, then the rear end. There is 1 location pin to line up with, then its just a case of holding it in place whilst you put a couple of bolts in it.

"Trick",,,if it feels like its jamming/locking, Stop, you can bend/break the Z-link,, if you can keep it all "kind of loose/pivoting/moving freely" it will sort of just slot into place. Make sure you put the right bolts back in the right holes,, when your upside down and contorted, its an easy mistake, even for qualified mechanics,,

Nothing special, but all your valves need to be at the same sort of angle as the previous ones, and dont forget to tuck the wires back under them. (Have a good look at it before you start dismantling- nothing works better than a pic or two to remind you for the before and after)

Taking the clip off the filter, lever it off with a screwdriver from the Z-link side, just where it cips onto the V/B, and when replacing it, that end clips in easiest. Be careful not to slice your hand on the filter edge (where you can see the gause). When fitting the filter itself, it should nestle onto the V/B and "seat" with the wiring loom tucked between the ribs of the V/B.
Note-- if your using a new filter, check to see the o-ring/seal from the old filter is out.

Make sure before you put the pan back on, to check the alignment of the little wheel on the spring, needs to be central on the Chook head.

Pan gasket,, just make sure its clean and sits on the rib nicely when you fit it up,,,Dont over tighten (only needs to be "nipped" up)

With all your bolts, V/B and Pan, there is a sequence, but the best way for you will be to (for the V/ start in the middle and spiral your way out, and (the Pan) same as doing up a wheel so to speak.

Dont forget to clean your magnet on the pan, and check for other crud in general,, bits of o-rings (both black rubber and blue plastic) etc, what ever you find may give some indication of other problems if any, or up-coming ones.

Its a bit long winded, but I hope it helps you both. Sing out if you need to,,,

Cheers Chops

Originally Posted by Chops

Its a bit long winded, but I hope it helps you both. Sing out if you need to,,,

Cheers Chops

Mighty big THANKS for the "Heads up" .... There is a square shaft that goes through the box and is attached to the white electrical selector switch .. mine is rusty and causes the selection switch to not line up correctly // I have resolved this via cleaning it (rust) and jambing Devcon? (plastic metal) and some nylon packer on the shaft / switch ..... (Is this the switch naming the Chooks head?? ...)

Will holer out if stuck .....






DEFENDERZOOK .... Another possibility ... does it give you ignition start problems in PARK ... IE ... have to move the gear stick to get it to start??

Have a look at that white selector switch on the side of the box
The shaft will look rusty ... where it protrudes through the switch ... You may have to take the switch off and clean the rust // and find a way to repack the space , so as to jamb the shaft back onto to the switch & controlling the proper sequence of the electrical selector verses the gear selected

You will snap the switch if you try to remove it ..... as the rust has a firm grip of it

Mike

Mike, The "chicken head" is actually on the inside, but has the rod going through it, and lines up with the switch which is called an "inhibitor" switch.
Im a bit lost as to why/where exactly your putting the Devcon, which is basicaly an aluminium filler, and will set rock hard.
Theres a nipple type bit on the side of the trans (a boss) which the switch locks into to hold it (to stop it from swivelling) in the correct position so the signal lines up with the C/Head. The bolts are self tappers into 2 bosses of their own. The whole unit should sit away from the trans by about 5mm maybe (?) You shouldn't need to remove it unless its damaged in some way.

Pm me if you need to,,