TD5 problem . . . . . .

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Originally Posted by sandyian

I'll give the fan a test tomorrow, so thanks for the reply. Today I took a run from the city to Springwood and the drop in power is definately noticable at 110k'h. It just doesn't want to overtake. Up to 60k/h it's OK, not good, not a shocker but at 110 it doesn't want to know about it if you put your foot down.

My gut feeling is turbo boost for whatever reason, you can't feel the turbo kick in any more, it's just smooth continuous albeit slow acceleration.

Sounds like MR at Redcliffe is the place to take it ?? I need to buy myself one of those little units that plug in the computer !!! Anyone want to sell one ??

Ian

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I reckon you need to investigate your turbo as well.
Common problem is the turbo modulator valve which goes faulty and detects overboost. Approx $60 to replace.
Check all hoses as well including the three to the valve.

I checked the fan and it spins reasonably freely so I guess it rules that out. I can't see any splits in hoses, and the car has been serviced more often than the log book requires. ie First service was done at 5000k, second at 15000 where the service handbook asks for the first at 20000 so hoses should have been replaced as called for by the service book.

I may as well change the modulator valve anyway since it's cheap enough and we'll see how that goes.

Thanks for the advice so far.

Ian

buy it from Karcraft Australia you wont be dissapointed...

call them rather than internetting it tho :)

Thanks

Steve

Check for a split on the inside of the rubber hose from the turbo to the steel pipe that connects to the intercooler. I had one develop a split there and could not track it down, the noise sounded like the A/C fan was on full although if you turned it off the noise was still there. About 300Km later at Normanton it blew properly and I got to replace it with a cut up Ford radiator hose.
Fooled the LR assist dude at Cloncurry as well, he muttered darkly about electronics and said all was OK.
Regards,
Tote

I bought a new wastegate valve today so I should get that in tomorrow, but a quick question if I can, one of the tubes from the valve goes to a vacuum actuator thingy above the turbo. This unit has a steel shaft sticking out the rear that must adjust something, but my question is should that move when I rev the engine, currently it doesn't move when the car is stationery and I rev the engine. (It may need the pressure of actually driving the car but it's a bit hard to see it while you are driving ;) )

The rubber tubes to the valve all seem OK but I'll replace them all at the same time I replace thee valve.

Thanks for the help so far.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by sandyian

I bought a new wastegate valve today so I should get that in tomorrow, but a quick question if I can, one of the tubes from the valve goes to a vacuum actuator thingy above the turbo. This unit has a steel shaft sticking out the rear that must adjust something, but my question is should that move when I rev the engine, currently it doesn't move when the car is stationery and I rev the engine. (It may need the pressure of actually driving the car but it's a bit hard to see it while you are driving ;) )

The rubber tubes to the valve all seem OK but I'll replace them all at the same time I replace thee valve.

Thanks for the help so far.

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Yes, it needs boost....

RPM under no load produces almost no boost and wont move the wastegate actuator

The vacuum modulator (the gadget in the line to the wastegate ) can go faulty as well. It allows some of the manifold pressule to bleed away and provides a way for the ECU to control boost. They can fail stuck open which allows the turbo to overboost until the ecu detects it and cuts fuel or they can stick shut which means you get reduced boost. I had one which would intermittently do both. A LR specialist should be able to extract the codes that will tell exactly what is going on.
Regards,
Tote

I replaced the valve this morning and the jury's out as to whether it's any better, but a couple of the small hoses that ran to the valve had small cracks where the slide on so for now I trimmed the ends back a cm or so to the soft rubber until I pick some new ones up today.

New problem, there was a little coolant showing around a plug on top of the main radiator hose, the one that runs above the manifold, down to the radiator etc etc. The plug is just above where the wastegate valve I replaced bolts to the block. I grabbed a screwdriver and went to remove the plug just so I could see why it was leaking and the top snapped off !!!!!!!!!! Bugger, it snapped off after a full turn or so and after a release of some pressure of air was heard. Now it leaks quite a bit so I need to use something like an easy out to remove the shaft that is still left. I bet you can't buy this little plastic screw plug thing and they say I need to buy the entire hose set. doooh !!

Bleed screw PYP10008L, around $17.

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Originally Posted by BigJon

Bleed screw PYP10008L, around $17.

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Thanks !!! I guess VW has just made me cynical when it comes to parts. LR does seem to be more reasonable compared to other automotive companies when it comes to parts.

VW is a shocker and so expensive !!!! The little bleed screw came out reasonably easily, I used a sharp knife very carefully to cut a slot in the top then used a screw driver to unscrew it. Off to buy a new screw thanks !!