Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 12

Thread: 300tdi solution for a problem with chewed boltheads for frontcover

  1. #1
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    in the wild New England, NSW
    Posts
    4,918
    Total Downloaded
    0

    300tdi solution for a problem with chewed boltheads for frontcover

    I changed my dico's frontcover today to address a fan bearing problem and I was reminded of how difficult it had been the first time I did it.

    Some of the bolts resisited to the stage of having the boltheads rounded off.... with the consequent requirement to weld nuts to extract the recalcitrants.

    Anyhow I had replaced all those little b&#*@r$ with cap/socket head stainless steel bolts with a lick of neversieze - all these bolts obtainable at your friendly local bearing shop in the requisite varied lengths.

    I hope it is a useful tip to pass on... if you hadn't done it already

    It was just sooo easy to remove & replace these bolts now

    [ATTACH]Attachment 7132[/ATTACH]

    regards - laurie
    Last edited by 87County; 11th May 2008 at 02:12 PM.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Nanny state UK...
    Posts
    3,253
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by 87County View Post
    It was just sooo easy to remove & replace these bolts now
    If you'd used a lick of neversieze on the originals, they too would have come out easily.

    M

  3. #3
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Cape Town
    Posts
    309
    Total Downloaded
    0

    cap screws

    Good idea mate.
    Always a better option to use stainless. We do this where possible in the ship repair business also to avoid so many hassles later when the job comes up again.
    Defender Kalahari 2006 (300 TDi)
    2008 Puma 110 - sold
    1973 Ser III 109" - sold

  4. #4
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    in the wild New England, NSW
    Posts
    4,918
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by camel_landy View Post
    If you'd used a lick of neversieze on the originals, they too would have come out easily.

    M

    if I'd put 'em in.... I would've done so

    when I bought it a coup[le of years back , it was overdue for a timing belt change...

  5. #5
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Location
    Townsville, QLD
    Posts
    706
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by CapeLandy View Post
    Good idea mate.
    Always a better option to use stainless. We do this where possible in the ship repair business also to avoid so many hassles later when the job comes up again.
    So you would be well aware of the metalurgy and the potential of electrolosis between stainless and aluminium and stainless and cast iron.

    Never sieze is good because it contains nickel but interestingly enough good ol lanoline is better as it won't conduct a current so gives u double protection from the electrolosis.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Warburton, Victoria
    Posts
    4,693
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Let me guess......... you used a 12 pont socket and not a 6 point 10mm???

    Common.... worse ones are crankshaft...

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Nanny state UK...
    Posts
    3,253
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by sclarke View Post
    Let me guess......... you used a 12 pont socket and not a 6 point 10mm???

    Common.... worse ones are crankshaft...
    Yep, always avoid bi-hex unless you REALLY have to use it.

    M

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Moruya Heads/Sth. Coast, NSW
    Posts
    6,532
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by 87County View Post
    I changed my dico's frontcover today to address a fan bearing problem and I was reminded of how difficult it had been the first time I did it.

    Some of the bolts resisited to the stage of having the boltheads rounded off.... with the consequent requirement to weld nuts to extract the recalcitrants.

    Anyhow I had replaced all those little b&#*@r$ with cap/socket head stainless steel bolts with a lick of neversieze - all these bolts obtainable at your friendly local bearing shop in the requisite varied lengths.

    I hope it is a useful tip to pass on... if you hadn't done it already

    It was just sooo easy to remove & replace these bolts now

    [ATTACH]Attachment 7132[/ATTACH]

    regards - laurie
    Another tip if there are no locating dowels for the timing cover, slide the crank pulley/dampner onto the crank snout to properly align the oil seal before you nip up the bolts, you will probably have to remove the pulley/dampner to get to some of the bolts, but you have at least aligned the oil seal correctly, Regards Frank.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Torres Straits
    Posts
    3,503
    Total Downloaded
    0
    how do you use a rattle gun on them fancy ones now????

    Steve
    '95 130 dual cab fender (gone to a better universe)
    '10 130 dual cab fender (getting to know it's neurons)

  10. #10
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    in the wild New England, NSW
    Posts
    4,918
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by Tank View Post
    Another tip if there are no locating dowels for the timing cover, slide the crank pulley/dampner onto the crank snout to properly align the oil seal before you nip up the bolts, you will probably have to remove the pulley/dampner to get to some of the bolts, but you have at least aligned the oil seal correctly, Regards Frank.

    this is an excellent tip

    i didn't know that some came out without a dowel - mine is a '98 and does have a dowel at the lower edge

    .... L

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Search AULRO.com ONLY!
Search All the Web!