I changed my dico's frontcover today to address a fan bearing problem and I was reminded of how difficult it had been the first time I did it.
Some of the bolts resisited to the stage of having the boltheads rounded off....with the consequent requirement to weld nuts to extract the recalcitrants.
Anyhow I had replaced all those little b&#*@r$ with cap/socket head stainless steel bolts with a lick of neversieze - all these bolts obtainable at your friendly local bearing shop in the requisite varied lengths.
I hope it is a useful tip to pass on... if you hadn't done it already
It was just sooo easy to remove & replace these bolts now
[ATTACH]Attachment 7132[/ATTACH]
regards - laurie
Last edited by 87County; 11th May 2008 at 02:12 PM.
Good idea mate.
Always a better option to use stainless. We do this where possible in the ship repair business also to avoid so many hassles later when the job comes up again.
Defender Kalahari 2006 (300 TDi)
2008 Puma 110 - sold
1973 Ser III 109" - sold
So you would be well aware of the metalurgy and the potential of electrolosis between stainless and aluminium and stainless and cast iron.
Never sieze is good because it contains nickel but interestingly enough good ol lanoline is better as it won't conduct a current so gives u double protection from the electrolosis.
Let me guess......... you used a 12 pont socket and not a 6 point 10mm???
Common.... worse ones are crankshaft...
Another tip if there are no locating dowels for the timing cover, slide the crank pulley/dampner onto the crank snout to properly align the oil seal before you nip up the bolts, you will probably have to remove the pulley/dampner to get to some of the bolts, but you have at least aligned the oil seal correctly, Regards Frank.
how do you use a rattle gun on them fancy ones now????
Steve
'95 130 dual cab fender (gone to a better universe)
'10 130 dual cab fender (getting to know it's neurons)
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