Packing wheel bearings.

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Originally Posted by foz.in.oz

Before the days of sealed 'O' ring motorcycle chains and aerosol lubricants it was common practice (in the UK) to place the chain in a tin of grease and heat the tin until the grease melted and filled the chain.

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When I was but a lad and apprentice fitter and worked in places that still had or repaired steam engines, we used to get a new motorbike chain and put it in a tin of 600w steam cylinder oil. Heat it up by sitting the tin on a bare patch on a steam pipe or similar and leaving overnight.

so, when you adjust the wheel bearings and the right place for the adjustment is 1/3rd the way to the next slot in the castellated nut ,do you back off that 1/3rd or do you go the 2/3rds to the next slot ?

i have met olf fellas that say yep go the next one and i have met those that say back off...

whats your preference learned ones?

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Originally Posted by incisor

so, when you adjust the wheel bearings and the right place for the adjustment is 1/3rd the way to the next slot in the castellated nut ,do you back off that 1/3rd or do you go the 2/3rds to the next slot ?

i have met olf fellas that say yep go the next one and i have met those that say back off...

whats your preference learned ones?

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Get a washer of a different thickness to stick under the castellated nut, so you can align it up properly at the right torque.

Castelled nut? On a land Rover? How crude and Japanese.
My boy, Land Rovers have infinitely adjustable bearing nuts.
So the question does not arise.
Ie a lock nut with a lock plate which can be fixed in any position. there are no fixed holes.
Regards Philip A

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Originally Posted by incisor

so, when you adjust the wheel bearings and the right place for the adjustment is 1/3rd the way to the next slot in the castellated nut ,do you back off that 1/3rd or do you go the 2/3rds to the next slot ?

i have met olf fellas that say yep go the next one and i have met those that say back off...

whats your preference learned ones?

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I tighten the nut up to seat the bearing and then give the hub a few spins, then start to back off, I use a large screwdiver to prise/lever against the outer hub and the inner shaft assemblly with my thumb or finger in between the two to feel for movement, when no movement, I lock the locknut and bend over the lock washers, next day I pop the grease cap and using the screwdriver method check for any movement and adjust if necessary, never had a bearing failure, Regards Frank.

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Originally Posted by PhilipA

Castelled nut? On a land Rover? How crude and Japanese.
My boy, Land Rovers have infinitely adjustable bearing nuts.
So the question does not arise.
Ie a lock nut with a lock plate which can be fixed in any position. there are no fixed holes.
Regards Philip A

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I know Landys have no castellated nuts on the wheel bearings, and that they are infinitely adjustable, i was just putting an answer to the question that was asked. Castellated nuts are found on other parts of a landy, where the situation of torquing up the nut improperly whilst aligning up the holes could arise.

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Originally Posted by paulthepilot_5

I know Landys have no castellated nuts on the wheel bearings, and that they are infinitely adjustable, i was just putting an answer to the question that was asked. Castellated nuts are found on other parts of a landy, where the situation of torquing up the nut improperly whilst aligning up the holes could arise.

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If it is on a tie rod end and you have 2/3rds of a turn to go to get the split pin hole lined up and there is a chance you may break the thread off or strip the nut and if you back it back the 1/3rd of a turn and it's going to be loose then I would place a thin washer underneath the nut. But you should be using a castellated nut which will require only a few degrees rotation to reach the split pin hole, commonsense and feel will tell you which way to go, Regards Frank.

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Originally Posted by PhilipA

Castelled nut? On a land Rover? How crude and Japanese.
My boy, Land Rovers have infinitely adjustable bearing nuts.
So the question does not arise.
Ie a lock nut with a lock plate which can be fixed in any position. there are no fixed holes.
Regards Philip A

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sigh, yes yes, i know how to do land rover wheel bearings...

let me rephrase it and set another scene...

lets forget the land rover, where talking trailer wheel bearings.. and your miles from bloody nowhere with a new full set of bearings which you fit to the hubs then proceed to fit to the trailer...

so whats the lessor of both evils in your considered opinions...

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Originally Posted by foz.in.oz

Isn't a multi sheath block just a load of single blocks made into one unit?

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yes

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Originally Posted by foz.in.oz

After all its the number of times the rope goes backwards and forwards between pullies that matters not how many different anchor points you hang them on.

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Also correct

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Originally Posted by foz.in.oz

Any way using lots of pulleys in the way they did spread the load out across the front of the Hummer. Using a multi sheath block would put all the load in one place. Those army Hummers weigh shed loads and the fact that the bumper is still on it would suggest that they knew what they were doing even if Mike Rowe didn't!!!:D

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The military hummers recovery points are part of the chassis setup and not the bumper there are holes cut in the bumper so you can get to them. Each single point is rated to take the whole weight of the vehicle so what they did was overkill they could have just used a single multi sheath block

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lets forget the land rover, where talking trailer wheel bearings.. and your miles from bloody nowhere with a new full set of bearings which you fit to the hubs then proceed to fit to the trailer

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IMHO, trailer bearings have so little load and heat, unless they have discs ( which may be knocked back) that it does not matter if they are a little loose. My Campomatic has 2x Falcon rear wheel bearings "parallel" with about 2500Kg rating on a trailer that weighs 600Kg ie 300Kg per side.

On my trailer I can clunk them a little, so my answer is that loose is the lesser of two "evils", as tight can damage the bearing and cause friction , whereas loose has little effect .
Again IMHO, it would be very difficult to damage a trailer bearing without putting water in it, or letting the grease dry out over many years, although lots of people seem to!

I once borrowed a friends boat on a trailer with those itty bitty 10 inch wheels and really really rusty bearings. I was not going to replace them , so I just cleaned and greased them and set them up loose. Drove from Melbourne to Eildon and back with no problems.
Regards Philip A