Packing wheel bearings.

I go with crank em up as hard as I can with the 12 inch shifter, turn the wheel at least 3 times to settle the bearing back it off at least 1/2 a turn (or untill I can turn the nut by hand whichever is most) put the spanner on vertical and let it fall in the direction of do up and then where that stops split pin it. I'll go up 1/3 of a notch but no more, IF I get one that I have to back off I'll pull the nut change the washer and have another go if i have a selection of washers and if not I'll back it off lock it and then run it for 500K or so then redo the tension.

If Im being really really pedantic and not doing it rough and ready I use the DTI and set between 5+10 tho of float. rough and ready is so that theres no clunking and you cant hear the bearings when you pull the wheel then turn it.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Tank

If it is on a tie rod end and you have 2/3rds of a turn to go to get the split pin hole lined up and there is a chance you may break the thread off or strip the nut and if you back it back the 1/3rd of a turn and it's going to be loose then I would place a thin washer underneath the nut. But you should be using a castellated nut which will require only a few degrees rotation to reach the split pin hole, commonsense and feel will tell you which way to go, Regards Frank.

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urmmmmm...
just to split hairs....

a castelated nut has 6 positions on which it can be pinned. thats 60 degrees.
if your tightening it up 2/3 of side to get the pin in your going 40 degrees. I cant see that hurting a tie rod other than making it seriously hard ot remove once the rust tight sets in.

I've never seen a lock nut setup that only has 2 locking positions that wasnt using the nut as a slide stop where its actual position or tension wasnt critical it just had to be there to stop something falling off or out

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Pedro_The_Swift

was it Duckhams??:D:D
only ever did that once on mums stove,,, :eek::eek:

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Yep. I used to use it on my bikes back in the 70s.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Blknight.aus

urmmmmm...
just to split hairs....

a castelated nut has 6 positions on which it can be pinned. thats 60 degrees.
if your tightening it up 2/3 of side to get the pin in your going 40 degrees. I cant see that hurting a tie rod other than making it seriously hard ot remove once the rust tight sets in.

I've never seen a lock nut setup that only has 2 locking positions that wasnt using the nut as a slide stop where its actual position or tension wasnt critical it just had to be there to stop something falling off or out

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I was reminising about the old days when some old tapered axles had a single hole in the axle and the nut, so mind had jumped out of gear, happens when you get old, Regards Frank.

As this thread is about bearings I suppose it's as good a place as any to ask if you knowledgeable ones can give me the Timken numbers for the front wheel bearings on a 1997 Defender. I've tried their website but couldn't find it.
Thought I'd do them to be safe (or at least check, regrease and adjust) before my next trip in June.
Thanks in advance.
Alan.

Timkin Bearings from Land Rover $200 a set.2007 prices. Pat

Timken Set 37

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/technical-...-bearings.html

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/technical-...-bearings.html

Also confirmed by the Timken Set 37 boxes in my garage :)
Same as my disco1.

About $40 per corner (two bearings) from a bearing shop.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Utemad

Timken Set 37

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/technical-...-bearings.html

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/technical-...-bearings.html

Also confirmed by the Timken Set 37 boxes in my garage :)
Same as my disco1.

About $40 per corner (two bearings) from a bearing shop.

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That's an excellent price. I paid about $80 for a set of SKF ones a couple of years back.

when I put all new ones in 6 years ago, the dealer was cheaper than the bearing service for Timken

Thanks everyone. Much the same price as quoted by Rovacraft.
Alan.