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Thread: clutch question (SERIES 3)

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Melrose SA
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    If you go down the stainless path you will not have to replace it again probably some seals in 10 years or so but thats it.
    The way a lot of the modern wheel cylinders and clutch components are made they seem to need replacing within 12 months or so..
    Stainless is cheap in the long term

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Perth - WA
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    Excellent, thanks everyone for the help.

    My next question is where you can get this stainless steel set-ups in Perth. Sounds like the goods to me for both the Series3 (1979) and the Defender (2001).

    I'm all ears (as usual)

    Jim

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Perth - WA
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    Another question, albeit a little embarassing.

    I topped up the clutch fluid just to tie down the problem, but none leaked out, and none has in the last few days. Now the clutch seems to work but only engages in the last few inches before hitting the floor. I've purged the air and driven it around a bit and it remains the same..

    Am I missing something? maybe a different issue?

    Jim

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Melbourn(ish)
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    you might have scored the master cylinder so that the fluid is bypassing back into the resivior.

    Ive gotten lazy with my clutch hydraulics I just go a new stainless sleve in the MC and Slave and a rebuild of both .
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
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  5. #15
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    ACT
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    I may be wrong, but I thought series III clutch master cylinders were the same as late 70's -early 80's corollas, the PBR ones with integral aluminium resevoirs? If so, they should be really easy to get and probably cheaper than sleeving. I bought one last year for about $35-$40.00.

    Andrew

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    darwin, nt
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    532
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    I heard the master cylinders were common with some 60s and 70s Falcons. The Corolla clutch master is NOT the same as my 71 KE20 model had a cable clutch. I doubt the later models went back to hydraulic. The brake master was also very different (mine was a single circuit unboosted) and the later ones became dual circuit.
    The master cylinder is very easy to get now - they use them on trailers. Supercheap, Independant Motor Mart, Repco, and BTC all have them on the shelf up here (Darwin). If you just need a kit, ask for PBR part number K7176X - I've done them before. I don't have the kit p/n for the slave cyl but I do know that it's common for 2, 2a and 3. The cylinders themselves, though, have different mounting flanges between series 2/2a and series 3.
    Hope I haven't muddied the waters even further.

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