Thread: Free Wheeling Hubs

You need to undo the screws closest to the wheel. The cap will then lift off. Inside is a splitpin and nut to undo. A 2a or swb 3 will have a hex shaped nut while a lwb 3 will have an odd round castellated nut. They do not interchange. The six bolts around the drive member can then be undone and the freewheeling hub removed - some may need some careful levering.
NB- You say you have already taken one off. I suspect something has gone badly wrong if you were able to get it off without removing the cap. Those Selectro hubs have a very bad habit of that. They tend to lose one of the internal circlips. The other thing they do is crack the housing where those screws I mentioned before secure the cap, rendering them scrap.
Hope this helps.

Thanks Dan
Your help with this was right on the mark, I did start with taking the 6 hub bolts off first on the passenger side and as you said some thing would be wrong is true, there was an internal circlip loose and floating. I hope I can fix this problem once I pull it right down and that its not scrap. I will pull the other 1 of today and match them up to see what the problem is.

Thanks
Bazz

Well both FWH's are stuffed so much for saving a bit of money

Thanks
Bazz

Sorry to hear that. Don't throw them away, though. You may stumble across another set for parts and be able to make a good pair up. If your Series 3 still has 10-spline axles, any Series 1, 2 or 2a FWHs will fit. The only ones that don't are on ENV axles (quite rare), LWB Series 3s, and SWB Series 3s built after 1980.
Hope this helps.