How about the thermo switch?
Hi:
I have a 1998 Disco with aircon. Some days the aircon works like a deep freeze - other days the compressor does not kick in at all. I'm in the Middle East and Aircon is a necessity! I've checked all the electrical connections, the gas was recharged recently and like I said it works great some days. Any ideas most welcome.
Viv
How about the thermo switch?
Yep, if everthing else has been 100% checked.
Could be sticking or the actuating bellows semi-flat. I am only assuming it is a power element type & not a bi-metal.
does your fan stop and start too?
apparently fan switches can get intermittent and if the fan stops, so does the AC (on my disco anyway)
The things that stop an AC comprssor starting
1.Pressure switch - either low press or high press - all to do with gas charge or a blockage or condenser fans not working or condenser blocked.
2. Thermostat - not the knob on the dash - but the sensor/thermistor in the guts.
3. Power supply
Check the pressure switch first they are notorious - just bypass it with a little bit of wire to see if that solves it - if it does then the gas charge is wrong (too much/too little) or there is not enough air going through the condenser or the condenser fans are not running (high press)
Thermostat (or temperature controller) you need to get to it and again check resistance - I will check the diagram after to see if you have a mechanical or electonic stat - and get back to you
Power supply - loose connection (you say you have checked) but often the little wire that goes to the clutch coil is affected by heat and gets brittle - so sometimes it works - sometimes it doesnt
Let me check the diagram
Mine has issues on hot days or when the thermal switch thinks it is hot. I don't seem to be having the same issues since the switch was swapped out at an air-com mechanic.
Also look at the fans as mine died shortly after........ so may have been them
:TakeABow:LAND ROVER
Don't Follow Me, I'm in a "Land Rover", You WON'T make it.
aut viam inveniam aut faciam
looks like the stat is mechanical and could be wired out for a test, but to remove / repair - its a git to get to
but to remove / repair - its a git to get to
Ladas, may be a good argument then, that after it's dismantled, is to run a pair of wires to somewhere accessible & terminated off separately, so it can be tested/bypassed again in the future?
Last edited by ladas; 12th March 2008 at 02:46 PM.
PS - Jeeeezzeeee these D1 wiring diagrams are hard to follow[/quote]
Thats because they are a wiring diagram not a circuit or schematic diagram, they are a pain in the bum to try to diagnose from.
Blythe
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