Results 1 to 7 of 7

Thread: Radiator replacement...

  1. 13th March 2008, 07:10 PM #1
    feral's Avatar
    feral
    feral is offline Wizard
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    1,006
    Total Downloaded
    0

    Unhappy Radiator replacement...

    Well it appears that the radiator in my D2 has finally given up and the retention of coolant is out of control. It has had a small weep for the last 50,000 k's which was fixed with a goo. It worked and that's what it was intended for....to delay the replacement of the radiator.

    British 4wd have copper core radiators now so is there any difference between copper and the alloy? Can I use the OAT coolant? How easy is it to remove the viscous fan without the special LR tools? Is the auto oil cooler attached to the radiator or are they two separate coolers? If so do I have to undo the oil lines from the auto oil cooler and how?

    Does anyone know where I can get a larger intercooler for the D2? I have put a couple of feelers out but have had no responses yet.

    My Easter is now shot to bits as I will be doing all the work. Are there any additional tips that I need to consider
    Reply With Quote Reply With Quote
  2. 13th March 2008, 09:44 PM #2
    Disco Pom
    Disco Pom is offline Master
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Canberra
    Posts
    126
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Hi Feral,

    I got a really good larger intercooler for my old Disco TD5 from TRS in Lonsdale Adelaide..

    They put it in the post to me for about $30 freight to Canberra..

    Phone number is 08 8384 6933 and Phil is the man to speak to.

    Check out http://www.triumphroverspares.com.au

    Think they are having some isssues with their website at the moment..

    cheers,
    Richard
    Reply With Quote Reply With Quote
  3. 13th March 2008, 09:48 PM #3
    camel_landy's Avatar
    camel_landy
    camel_landy is offline YarnMaster
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Nanny state UK...
    Posts
    3,253
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Fan... You might as well get yerself the tool to do it properly. If you don't have one, you can usually use a center punch or something similar to release it but you end up damaging it.

    Not done one on a D2 but usually once you've got the fan and cowling out of the way, everything else should be fairly accessible.

    M
    Reply With Quote Reply With Quote
  4. 13th March 2008, 09:54 PM #4
    Pedro_The_Swift's Avatar
    Pedro_The_Swift
    Pedro_The_Swift is offline The MOD Father
    Join Date
    May 2003
    Location
    On The Road
    Posts
    30,031
    Total Downloaded
    0
    From what I hear here,, a P38 Auto cooler is the go,,,

    can someone confirm?
    "How long since you've visited The Good Oil?"

    '93 V8 Rossi
    '97 to '07. sold.
    '01 V8 D2
    '06 to 10. written off.
    '03 4.6 V8 HSE D2a with Tornado ECM
    '10 to '21
    '16.5 RRS SDV8
    '21 to Infinity and Beyond!

    1988 Isuzu Bus. V10 15L NA Diesel
    Home is where you park it..

    [IMG][/IMG]
    Reply With Quote Reply With Quote
  5. 13th March 2008, 10:03 PM #5
    Slunnie's Avatar
    Slunnie
    Slunnie is online now Swaggie Gold Subscriber
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Central West NSW
    Posts
    14,147
    Total Downloaded
    99.87 MB
    We've done a trackside radiator replacement up at Cape York. Not cool, and it took us a full 2x half days to do it.

    RAVE says to remove the fan, but we did it without removing the fan.

    I would buy OE, so there are no additional issues. You'll already be going bloody spare doing just the job.

    Find someone with girls or kids hands to help do the little hoses at the bottom of the radiator.

    To remove the radiator you will be pulling everything out of the front, the headlights, headlight trim, grill, horns the lot. The ATF cooler is mounted to the radiator, and so is the Intercooler. They all need to come off the radiator, and the intercooler needs to come out. DONT unplug or remove the ATF cooler or the A/C radiator from the car! Try Davis Performance Landys for a larger intercooler. Check RAVE also for coolant refil instructions and check it regularly to get the air bubbles out.

    Also... just check the lower ports into the new radiator. If you have hoses that go into this, then you will need to drill them out so that the coolant can flow through them - they are not predrilled. The radiator will come with an aluminium pilot hole guide for these holes if you do need to drill them out.
    Last edited by Slunnie; 13th March 2008 at 10:32 PM.
    Cheers
    Slunnie


    ~ Discovery II Td5 ~ Discovery 3dr V8 ~ Series IIa 6cyl ute ~ Series II V8 ute ~
    Reply With Quote Reply With Quote
  6. 13th March 2008, 10:21 PM #6
    DRS's Avatar
    DRS
    DRS is offline Fossicker
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Posts
    60
    Total Downloaded
    0
    I tried Aftermarket copper radiator and it started leaking after about 9 months. Went back to original radiator about 12 months ago and no probs.

    Probably a good time to replace intercooler hoses and rad hoses.

    Andy at Allisport in UK have full size intercooler.

    I have tuning module and i have found his service great.

    Good luck.

    Dave
    Reply With Quote Reply With Quote
  7. 14th March 2008, 07:55 AM #7
    rick130's Avatar
    rick130
    rick130 is offline Moderator Gold Subscriber
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    NSW far north coast
    Posts
    17,285
    Total Downloaded
    0
    FWIW, OAT and copper/brass radiators are OK.
    Reply With Quote Reply With Quote
« UPS Inverters | Transfer box leak »

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  

Forum Rules

Search AULRO.com ONLY!
 Search All the Web!