Thread: TACHO Still Dead!

G`day Shirley ,

What brand of alternator is it ?

Not all , actually most alternators don`t have the pulse connection to run the Tacho that Rovers use .

It can be fitted to any alternator if you can pull one apart and use an iron of the soldering type .

Cheers

Originally Posted by PLR

G`day Shirley ,

What brand of alternator is it ?

Not all , actually most alternators don`t have the pulse connection to run the Tacho that Rovers use .

It can be fitted to any alternator if you can pull one apart and use an iron of the soldering type .

Cheers

Peter, please tell me more, its one of the last tidy ups, for the Chev I put in a Disco, running a bosch alternator, details would be great

G`day it will depend on the actual alt .

But all you do is connect a wire to any 1 of the phases and this way it doesn`t matter how many it has .

I use a mits 110 from a Ford its 4 most Lucs and Bosh are 3 if its direct from the phase it simple enough .

My minds not really in alt think but i think as long as it`s before the rectifier but have to check .

What model Bosch ?

Cheers

Originally Posted by PLR

G`day it will depend on the actual alt .

But all you do is connect a wire to any 1 of the phases and this way it doesn`t matter how many it has .

I use a mits 110 from a Ford its 4 most Lucs and Bosh are 3 if its direct from the phase it simple enough .

My minds not really in alt think but i think as long as it`s before the rectifier but have to check .

What model Bosch ?

Cheers

Couldn't tell you off hand, at work and the vehicle is on the road, so will have to get back to you with that one, maybe I should pull an old rover alt apart, that'll show me, If I have to get a box to alter the signal to cal it, so be it, but obviously the rover tach, wont work of neg coil, seeing as its of an alternator phase

Also remember the alternator pulley ( and the crank pulley ie the ratio)has to be the same size for the tacho to be accurate and most Bosch pulleys are at least 10% bigger than the original Lucas.

If you are not sure how to do the wire , an auto electrician should do it for $40-50, and you could ask nicely to sort through his junk pulley box.
Regards Philip A

Originally Posted by rovercare

Couldn't tell you off hand, at work and the vehicle is on the road, so will have to get back to you with that one, maybe I should pull an old rover alt apart, that'll show me, If I have to get a box to alter the signal to cal it, so be it, but obviously the rover tach, wont work of neg coil, seeing as its of an alternator phase

G`day

i had a look on my computor because i actually though i`d found a site the showed how it was done on a Bosch but no .

Depending as i said on your type of bosch , remove the brushes and/or regulator which ever , you may be able to split it leaving the pulley connected to the rotor shaft with the front cover .

If you need to take the pulley off with it in half i`m sure you can work a way .

Then with it in half you may or may not have to pull the stator out , depends how much room you have .

Just find the ends of the phase windings , they will most likely be soldered which makes it easy to attatch a small length of wire but make it longer than needed so you can thread it out of harms way where ever suits and put a connection of your choice on the end of it . i use those wee little cable ties , the thichness of a peice of string to make sure it`s secure .

There are other places it can be attached but there is no chance of upsetting anything this way and i don`t pretend to be any sort of auto electrician so can`t name where but could probably work out wher if i was looking at it .

Philips point about the pully is relevant but you`ll have more to contend with because i`d be surprised if the Chev pullys ran the same ratios as Rover anyhow .

My 110amp runs on a 10A belt and will slip if it get at all loose but drives it fine for such a small belt .

If you need any more specifics and i know just ask and i tell .

Cheers

Originally Posted by PLR

G`day

i had a look on my computor because i actually though i`d found a site the showed how it was done on a Bosch but no .

Depending as i said on your type of bosch , remove the brushes and/or regulator which ever , you may be able to split it leaving the pulley connected to the rotor shaft with the front cover .

If you need to take the pulley off with it in half i`m sure you can work a way .

Then with it in half you may or may not have to pull the stator out , depends how much room you have .

Just find the ends of the phase windings , they will most likely be soldered which makes it easy to attatch a small length of wire but make it longer than needed so you can thread it out of harms way where ever suits and put a connection of your choice on the end of it . i use those wee little cable ties , the thichness of a peice of string to make sure it`s secure .

There are other places it can be attached but there is no chance of upsetting anything this way and i don`t pretend to be any sort of auto electrician so can`t name where but could probably work out wher if i was looking at it .

Philips point about the pully is relevant but you`ll have more to contend with because i`d be surprised if the Chev pullys ran the same ratios as Rover anyhow .

My 110amp runs on a 10A belt and will slip if it get at all loose but drives it fine for such a small belt .

If you need any more specifics and i know just ask and i tell .

Cheers

Thanks Peter, sounds good, I'll just alter the signal with a Jaycar kit, I'm curious to use one after needing to alter speed sender signals on the 1UZ-FE I'm wiring, it may come in handy one day, and this will be an unimportant thing to try it on

Not sure when the car will be back for me to play with but, will be sure to update when I do it

I've chucked a Bosch in my V8 Disco.

Pics here V8 Disco - Bosch alternator swap including the addition of the signal lead for the tacho...