In that case, yes it should be fine.Quote:
Originally Posted by procrastination inc
Just keep an ear out for the roaring noise when the temp gauge gets closer to half way.
Cheers,
Ron
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In that case, yes it should be fine.Quote:
Originally Posted by procrastination inc
Just keep an ear out for the roaring noise when the temp gauge gets closer to half way.
Cheers,
Ron
I would think that you should totally overhaul the cooling system. New water pump, thermostat and definitely new radiator because the existing radiator may be blocked to the point where there's not much cooling capacity reserve.
The Rover V8 really doesn't like overheating. Mine never overheated yet managed to suffer a slipped cylinder liner. Grr!!! :mad:
Well, that roar in the mornings isn't there any more. Guess the fan hub is stuffed.
Are these rebuildable?
switched on the aircon on the way home. Temp went up to 2/3rd of the middle range :(
I don't know if they are.Quote:
Originally Posted by procrastination inc
When you turn on the air con, do the twin front electric fan start?
Ron
Yep. they also kick in when the temp gauge is over 1/3 of the normal range, even when the air con is off
Okay, Then I suggest you do what tempestV8 said.Quote:
Originally Posted by procrastination inc
There is obviously something wrong with your cooling system.
My 97 V8, never gets hot, even towing on stinking hot days.
I think you should remove the radiator and take it to a Radiator shop to be "reconditioned" I think you have poor circulation. Flush the engine block, refit the radiator and you may well be surprised :D
$150 for a hub is not too bad. I tried to by a Jaguar one and found it was cheaper to fit the AU/BA Ford twin electrics, which I did, at $280.
Way back in the 80's I was quoted $150 for a Mercedes Benz one. :eek:
Make a few calls, but I think you may find that is "not bad".
Cheers,
Ron
thanks ron
new hub is in the mail.
thought I'd replace the thermostat too
Bottom bolt on the housing is well rusted in and the head sheared off when I tried to undo it :mad:
left 10mm hanging out but in a pretty awkward position. Got onto it with visegrips, whacked it on the head a bit and and loaded it with WD40 to no avail.
I think easy outs will be a one way ticket to hell on this one. Might need to buy a stud extractor.
I wish I had some heating method to warm up the alloy. WIP...
While the WD40 was soaking, I thought I'd check the old thermostat. Didn't open in a boiling pot...:eek:
Procrastination,
Sorry to hear about this head shearing off.... but what exactly are you referring to? Is this the water pump housing that you're talking about?
BTW the LR viscous coupling is fully sealed, so it's not refillable like some Toyota ones are. So if it's stuffed, just get a new one.
Sounds like your thermostat is stuffed as well.
One thing that I do know about LR thermostats - they tend to fail in the "open" position, so the engine will run cold instead. They don't often fail in the "closed" position from age, but often due to being overheated. So I think that whilst you will need to replace your thermostat, it's not the root cause of your overheating problem in the first place.
I'd get the radiator replaced or recored, whichever is cheaper.
Lawrance
p.s. re the stuck stud, try Loctite Freeze & Release?
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