Thread: Honest Opinion,Axles

mmm yeah if you have/want big tyres are drive hard

I had a wimch challemge truck in the Uk which ran a 24 spline arb locker and maxi drive shafts and ran simex exterme trecker 35" (which i used to run at 10psi most of the time when competeing). With AEU 2522 cv's (early 110 cv's) on the front

This was the set up in both axles and i had that in the car for 4 years and used the car for some seious events. And i do have a name for a ruff ar*e. And after 4 years i took the shafts out and they were like new

I belive this ti be the strongest you can get inside a land rover axle never let me down

maxi drive ? so whats the next best

Detroit/True Track

Maxi-Drive Engineering - Australian 4WD Action Online Forums

About the time Land Rover changed to 24 spline axles in the disco, they also changed the cv's, which required the axle to be stepped down at the cv.

The cross section at the 24 spline end is stronger than the old 10 spline axles, but at the cv, it is weaker than the old 10 spline.

This is why Reads90, myself, and others change to the old county cv's and custom axles.

It may not be an option if you have ABS - I don't have any experience with this. Then probably better to get Ashcroft cv's and axles.

Edit: IMHO the 2 pinion diff centres are weaker than stock 10 spline axles. If you upgrade axles you should also upgrade the centres. When the pinion or cross shaft fails the broken bits usually break the crown wheel and pinion. The easiest way to upgrade the centres, is to fit lockers (which have 4 pinion centre). Or alternatively tru-trac diffs.

If you drive with some mechanical empathy, then the D2 axles and diffs will be fine. They seem to be either better than the other LAndRover axles or the ETC helps preserve them.

Thanks all

I give my trucks a hard time but I've never busted an axle. I'm of the opinion that it's all down to how you drive... (Learn how to drive properly before spending $$$ 'upgrading' your truck).

As long as you avoid the sudden 'shock loading' of the drive train (i.e. dumping the clutch!) then you'll be fine.

M

Originally Posted by camel_landy

I give my trucks a hard time but I've never busted an axle. I'm of the opinion that it's all down to how you drive... (Learn how to drive properly before spending $$$ 'upgrading' your truck).

<snip>

M

Dare I suggest one upgrades a known weakspot before one gets left high and dry 1000km from home

rocks and in particular the sandstone steps that surround the Sydney/Newcastle/Wollongong basins really give a driveline a hard time, much more so than sloppy/muddy conditions.

Originally Posted by rick130

Dare I suggest one upgrades a known weakspot before one gets left high and dry 1000km from home

rocks and in particular the sandstone steps that surround the Sydney/Newcastle/Wollongong basins really give a driveline a hard time, much more so than sloppy/muddy conditions.

Exactly.

Dumping the clutch is pi$$ ant stuff compared to the shock loads from a lifted spinning wheel coming down with weight on rock steps (particularly the short side axle).

Edit: Fatigue damage is cumulative. The damage occurs from numerous loading events at material stress levels that can be well below ultimate and final failure can occur at a very small load a long way from home and help.