Thread: Front drive shaft

Series 2 is the DC joint..

Is it binding? Vibrating? A DC shaft is normally fitted to solve vibration issues. Its not a wide angle design, it won't perform any better at extreme angles.

Regards
Max P

With the 3 inch lift the front shaft vibrates at low speeds and also when slowing down.
I thought if I fitted a DC that it would'nt vibrate as much, but maybe I should look at a wider type joint instead.


Adam

If you have taken any measures (except rotating swivels), to correct castor angles, then the pinion is rotated down and will cause problems with the u-joint at the t/case and will cause vibration of the drive shaft.

The stock u-joint should not bind with stock length shockies as they (and the radius arm bushes) limit down travel (regardless of lift), unless the shockie towers are shortened (then you need to move the bump stops).

My disco I does not have a vibration problem with 3" lift and the stock drive shaft.

I have 2"lowered turrets, 3" coils, 3deg carstor corrected radius arms and land######er shocks.
I only feel the viabrations when slowing down but if you keep it at a constant speed there bugger all there

Adam

Yes it will fit but you have to change the drive flange on xfer box, should sort the issues you have

Originally Posted by agrojnr

I have 2"lowered turrets, 3" coils, 3deg carstor corrected radius arms and land######er shocks.
I only feel the viabrations when slowing down but if you keep it at a constant speed there bugger all there

Adam

The castor corrected radius arms are at the root of your problem.

They rotate the pinion down, worsening the phasing of the u-joints on the front drive shaft. This also increase the angle of the u-joint at the t/case.

This is a problem with coil sprung rovers. Resulting from the way the engine and drive train is angled down toward the rear. The front pinion could not be angled down to be parallel with the transmission, so it is angled up and the u-joints are rotated out of line to compensate.

You will be better off with the stock radius arms. The only good way to correct the castor is to rotate the swivels.

If you fit a drive shaft with double cardan joint, you could have worse vibrations until the front pinion is rotated up to be inline with the drive shaft (within 2 -3 degrees).

Originally Posted by Bush65

The castor corrected radius arms are at the root of your problem.

They rotate the pinion down, worsening the phasing of the u-joints on the front drive shaft. This also increase the angle of the u-joint at the t/case.

This is a problem with coil sprung rovers. Resulting from the way the engine and drive train is angled down toward the rear. The front pinion could not be angled down to be parallel with the transmission, so it is angled up and the u-joints are rotated out of line to compensate.

You will be better off with the stock radius arms. The only good way to correct the castor is to rotate the swivels.

If you fit a drive shaft with double cardan joint, you could have worse vibrations until the front pinion is rotated up to be inline with the drive shaft (within 2 -3 degrees).

That is certainly my experience with my D1. The double cardin made it worse. As stated rotating the swivels is the only way to go.